On a recent cool evening, my friend and I took advantage of a lull in our busy schedules to slip over to Georgetown and enjoy dinner at one of DC’s brightest and historically-rich culinary destinations: 1789 Restaurant. Located just a few minutes from the bustle of Georgetown’s shopping nexus, to step inside 1789 is to step into history. Named for the year that Archbishop John Carroll (founder of Georgetown University) purchased the original site of the restaurant, 1789 is furnished throughout with period antiques, prints, lithographs and photos which create a welcoming ambiance that echoes the heritage of the building.
A member of the Clyde’s restaurant group, 1789 is tucked inside a Federal-style townhouse across the street from the historic Car Barns. Stretched out over four levels, the restaurant has the kind of charm and ambiance that only old houses possess. Floors are slightly creaky; doorways sag ever so slightly; fireplaces are extra-large and low ceilings are all nostalgically. As we walked through the John Carroll room to our table (who, as serendipity would have it, I am actually related to through my mother), I wondered what intrigues the walls had witnessed over the last 200 years.
Entering the restaurant, you are greeted by the quaint, charming Pub that invites lingering with a glass of wine, especially on a chilly evening. Interesting antiques and furnishings fill the small space. The bar itself is a slab of marble that was formerly a part of the production room at the Evening Star newspaper, and a Parliament clock keeps time quietly in the corner. In fact, every room at 1789 is decorated with thoughtful period details: silver and pewter antiques, linens, Limoges China, historical lithographs, prints and maps are artfully displayed in each room. Some of these treasures are sourced locally (siding from a Maryland barn adorns the walls in one room, for example) while other pieces (a sixteenth-century monks’ bench in the Pub, now used to house wine) come from Ireland.
In addition to the Pub, there are three other dining rooms: the John Carroll Room (second photo), Manassas Room and Wickets Room, as well as two rooms for private events—the Middleburg Room (above) and the Garden Room, offering an ideal setting for just about any occasion: a romantic dinner date, a private event or simply a relaxing after-work drink or supper.
Lauded as Chef of the Year in 2010 by the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington, Executive Chef Daniel Giusti—who at 24 is already a bright talent in the culinary world—has created a progressive menu which is updated daily to reflect regional flavors, as well as the energy of the season. On the night we were there, the menu anticipated the slight chill in the air with fresh fruits and vegetables such as baby beets, Asian pears and autumnal greens; pungent local blue cheeses and fresh made pasta; eco-friendly ‘everything but the squeal’ pork dishes; seasonal oysters, fish and scallops; locally-raised beef and lamb, venison from Pennsylvania, and Pasture Pure Meats—sweetbreads and pheasant. Prices range from $18 – $35, and don’t hesitate to ask for wine recommendations. 1789 has been awarded Wine Spectator’s Excellence Award every year since 2001, and offers a robust wine list from California, as well as international selections. And to complement your meal, the manager William explained that the restaurant is happy to pair wines with each course, which he then very generously did for my friend and I, allowing us to each try several wonderful new wines along with our food.
Following the recommendation of our waitress, my friend decided to let Chef Giusti select for her, while I chose the Roasted Beet & Tender Green Bean Salad to start, followed by Triggerfish with Baby Artichokes, Black Spanish Radish and Pornanino Extra Virgin Olive Oil. While waiting for our salads, we nibbled on crusty ciabatta with three different spreads: Vermont Cheese Company Butter with Sea Salt; a zesty Arugula Pesto, and Chestnut Butter with Bliss Maple Syrup. Even knowing I had salad and an entrée coming, it was all I could do to not make a meal of this bread alone and I’m already contemplating trying to reverse engineer the spreads in my own kitchen! While enjoying these starters and our first glass of wine, we were surprised with impromptu entertainment. The Chimes, Georgetown’s a capella group, arrived to sing for one of the other patrons, a gentleman celebrating his birthday. And even though I had never dined at 1789 before, I had the feeling this type of occurrence isn’t uncommon here—locals joining together to celebrate with the community and share amazing food.
After the singing, our salads arrived—gorgeous presentations of colors and textures. Delicately crunchy and fragrant, the Beet & Tender Green Bean Salad showcased the earthy flavor of the baby beets with tarragon, olive oil and crème fraichê, while my friend’s salad of burgundy snails, autumn greens, homemade pasta and shaved raw goat’s milk had a smokier, richer flavor that seemed to evoke the fall weather outside.
Our entrees soon followed, and where I had gone with seafood, Chef Giusti chose game for my friend, and we were not disappointed: Leg of Venison with Braised Endive, poached Seckel Pears and Roasted Chanterelle Mushrooms. Both entrees were delightful. The venison medallions, deep-pink and a perfect medium-rare, were succulent and meltingly tender, set-off beautifully with the slightly bitter undertone of the endive and the sweetness of the pear.
White and delicately flavored, the Triggerfish, which I had never eaten before, was silky, firm, and cooked to a caramelized golden brown. It was served with roasted Spanish black radishes, which took on a slightly nutty flavor from roasting, and baby artichokes on a bed of chewy farro. Both my friend and I agreed we would be looking for this fish again!
As our waitress whisked away our dinner plates, a dessert menu stealthily appeared on the table, and one look at the delectable options made up our minds: Pastry Chef Travis Olson’s creations simply sounded too wonderful to resist and after a few moments deliberation (it was a really hard decision!) we went with Carrot & Pecan Cake and the TCHO 66% Chocolate Torte. How glad I am we indulged. The Carrot Cake, moist and fragrant with Ceylon cinnamon caramel, golden raisins and long curly strips of cardamom ‘carrot chips’ had the perfect amount of sweetness and spice, without being too overbearing.
And although I am absolutely partial to carrot cake, the star of the night had to be the Torte. Composed of a rich, bittersweet chocolate ganache, cocoa nib wafer and fresh whipped cream, the torte promised and delivered a rich, velvety chocolate flavor that was deliciously tempered by the freshness of the cream. As we scraped our spoons over the plate one final time, I can only presume we were not the first to be seduced by this dessert’s dark allure. And hopefully not the last!
As if they hadn’t treated us well enough (the restaurant graciously comped our entire meal), the kitchen sent out one final dish: a homemade pumpkin marshmallow, a cocoa-encrusted macadamia nut, and a hazelnut sugar cookie – three tiny dessert bites that were the perfect ending to an amazing meal. If I could go back in time, I’m not sure that I’d choose the year 1789 to visit, which is why I’m so thankful that 1789 Restaurant exists in the here and now, and is only a short cab ride away.
1789 Restaurant
1226 36th Street N.W.
202-965-1789
www.1789restaurant.com
