We’re girls who know what we want. Especially when it comes to dining. But Aurora’s Damien Graef, general manager and impassioned wine maestro, was likably convincing in that he might know what was best for us. As a compromise, my friend Caroline and I chose our entrees and asked him to conduct the procession of all else. (We were treated by Aurora and, in retrospect, it may have been Graef that conceded to letting us pick our main dishes.)

Caroline’s entrée of choice was la Pasta al Ragù. With the exception of artisanal spaghetti, each pasta on the menu is homemade, and the ragù varies daily. On the dusky Thursday we visited Aurora’s Williamsburg location, the slow-cooked meat for the evening was pork sausage. The large crumbles of meat were fennel-spiced, herby, and perfectly salted, with an intriguingly near-granular—but by no means dry—texture. A substantial portion of it rested in thick papardelle ribbons cooked to a thoughtfully chewy consistency.

I was unsurprisingly drawn to the Gnocchi agli Asparagi Tartufati, given its combination of personally favored ingredients: asparagus, Parmesan, and crushed black truffles in a delicate, creamy sauce coat the gnocchi. The potato-y pasta dumplings are shaped like tiny pillows fit for fairies, and their suppleness had me imagining they’d probably work splendidly for that purpose as well. Tenuta Sant’Antonio’s 2008 Scaia performed as a wonderful accompaniment, a deeply peppery wine with smooth vegetable notes.

Clearly, Chef Adam Weisell’s recipes inspire fierce culinary enthusiasm. But let me go back to the beginning. Aurora is situated in one of the less quaint, more concrete-bound blocks of Brooklyn’s Williamsburg neighborhood. However, when you enter the restaurant’s softly lit, wood and metal work detailed interior, you’ll find a cozy oasis in tribute to southern Italy. This summer, choose to sit out on the vine-ensconced and spacious patio.

We met Damian and two glasses of cool Prosecco upon being seated, and took in the relaxing yet vibrant ambience. If you can avoid the danger of filling your belly too soon, sample some appetizing items for the table: we had chucks of Parmagiano-Reggiano drizzled with balsamic vinegar, succulent house-marinated olives hinting at cumin, bay leaf, red pepper flakes, and citrus, and homemade olive bread dipped in fragrant oil.

For antipasti, we were presented with a neat jumble of whole anchovies that were surprisingly plump and accompanied with a zesty tartar. Masterfully deep-fried, they aren’t oily or overly filling.

We were both completely thrilled by the Fave, Ricotta e Pecorino salad, which featured the wide, short-seasoned fava beans tossed with flakes of the sheep’s cheese in a light, mint-lemon dressing. A centered dollop of fresh, mellow ricotta contrasted perfectly with the crisp and sharp flavors. Caroline and I are only a shade too polite for blatant dish hogging, but we were extremely eager with this fantastic item.

Italian fava beans originate from the town of Montefiascone, so our salad was paired with the white Est! Est!! Est!!! of corresponding origin. A tasty and popular wine with an interesting story, the variety has been produced since the year 1000 and is named from a colloquial acronym for “the wine is good here!”

With the beginning nibbles, antipasti, and entrées, we were three courses in and sated. But the tiramisu is made with fresh strawberry puree! Naturally, we had to try it. Partnered with sips of thick espresso, the treat is served in a tumbler, made with Savoiardi, and soaked in sweet creaminess.

Exploring Chef Weisell’s old-world menu left Caroline and me deeply sated and in no rush. Weisell is influenced by having grown up traveling during his formative years. An item well worth trying is the Spaghetti alla Carbonara, Weisell’s first dish (famously, he began cooking as a small child), which I look forward to on my next visit. As for that dusky Thursday on the patio, we sat back, sighed, sipped a simple, apple and peachy Romano Dogliotti Moscato d’asti La Caudrina dessert wine… and felt quite pleased with ourselves for following Damian’s lead.

Aurora Brooklyn
70 Grand St., between Wythe Ave. & Kent Ave.
Williamsburg, Brooklyn