By Charlene Giannetti

On a recent Saturday night, I had the best fish dish I have ever eaten. It was a grilled branzino with lemon marmellata, an Italian lemon jelly, and crushed pine nuts. Lemon, of course, is a wonderful flavoring for fish, and the marmellata was intense—tangy and sweet at the same time. The fish was perfectly grilled with a luscious, golden color. The pine nuts added some crunch. The entire dish came together in such a wonderful way….but wait. I’m getting ahead of myself.

We were dining at Civetta, a recent addition to Nolita from the owners who have made Sfoglia a popular restaurant on the Upper East Side. Civetta’s address is 98 Kenmare Street, on the northern border of Little Italy. We were eager to try the restaurant for a more personal reason. For many years Patrissy’s occupied that space on Kenmare Street and our family had many memorable meals there, including a surprise party my husband arranged for one of my milestone birthdays. Patrissy’s became a favorite place to bring out of town guests to. It was our “go-to” place when visitors wanted to experience Little Italy.

Patrissy’s has been gone for nearly a decade and the space has remained vacant and forlorn looking after being occupied by several failed restaurants. What a pleasure it was to come upon Civetta! The outside of the restaurant is covered with lavender flowers and blue hydrangeas and the wooden exterior has been polished to a high gleam. The interior resembles a rustic farmhouse, with wooden tables, large pots overflowing with greens and sunflowers, and candles burning everywhere. My memories of Patrissy’s were so different, but I was not displeased with what had replaced one of my favorite restaurants.

Let’s be clear, however. Unlike Patrissy’s, Civetta is a very distant cousin to the restaurants around the corner. Little Italy is a popular tourist destination. Civetta is a destination restaurant. Those who make the journey from uptown or crosstown come to see and be seen at this new hot spot. And it is, already, hot. On our visit the tables were filled with an attractive clientele enjoying the food, ambiance, and each other.

I arrived before my husband and took some time to take in the atmosphere. It is, in a word, romantic. Perhaps that feeling is created by so many candles creating a soft, warm glow. The service is attentive but not intrusive. And the staff has been well trained. Our server, a wonderfully professional young woman, knew the menu and the wine list, and made good suggestions.

Another reason we knew we were not in Little Italy? The menu is top heavy in appetizers, twenty-four to be exact. That number contrasts with six pastas (one additional special), four fish dishes, and four meat dishes (one special there, too). Small plates are all the rage these days, allowing everyone to sample and share smaller portions. Civetta has embraced that trend. Look over the selections carefully. There are so many dishes you will want to try, you might be tempted to forgo a main course.

Soon after I was seated and spread the homey dishtowel that serves as a napkin on my lap, a small dish arrived containing pickled vegetables—cauliflower, peppers, and beets. I ordered a glass of wine, a Rosato, and nibbled while looking over the menu. When my husband joined me, a basket of rustic Italian bread followed.

We decided to order two appetizers, the seafood fritto misto and the fava with pecorino Toscano and walnuts, to start. The servings were generous. The frito misto contained sardines, blue point oysters, and diver scallops, all fried to perfection. The fava beans were fresh and green, and the combination of cheese and nuts went very well.

For our second course, we shared a pasta dish, the tagliatelle bottarga di muggine, with fennel and preserved lemon. This was a spectacular dish. The wide noodles were tender but with a bite. The fennel had been grilled before being added to the pasta, so it was slightly wilted with a smoky taste. And the bottarga, dried fish roe, provided the salty, briny element that balanced out the dish.

I’ve already raved about my fish dish and can’t wait to return for seconds. My husband enjoyed the grilled swordfish, a generous and perfectly cooked portion. We took our server’s advice and ordered the peach layer cake for dessert. She was right: sweet, indulgent, but not heavy.

We were curious about all the people descending a stairway near the entrance. After we paid our bill, we wandered downstairs and found a lounge with another bar and deep red upholstered banquets where diners may wait until their table opens up. We were told that a deejay would play there after hours for those who want to stay after dinner to enjoy the music and dance. This addition to the restaurant summed it up: We weren’t in Patrissy’s anymore.

Civetta
Type of food: Italian
98 Kenmare Street
212-274-9898
www.civettarestaurant.com

Romantic—4                             Child Friendly–1
Girls’ Night Out—3                  Solo Dining—2
Business Dining—3                  Visitors Welcome—4
Dress Code—Business              Budget—Expensive
Casual