It’s hard to establish a universal standard when reviewing restaurants. For me, if the food is good, the waiters are friendly, and the atmosphere inviting, I’ve had a good time; note that “good,” “friendly,” and “inviting” are pretty nebulous terms. The biggest factor, whether it’s a Sri Lankan eatery in Staten Island, our favorite Indian spot in Park Slope, or an upscale restaurant in Manhattan, is answering the question, “How was the service?”
In terms of fine dining, Water’s Edge in Long Island City takes their level of service to an almost superlative level, not just in the good-natured waiters (which they have), the fantastic entrees (which they also have), or in the cozy yet sophisticated ambiance (which, again, they definitely do have). Rather than assume their diners would come over via the N or Q trains, or suffer through traffic to cross the Queensboro Bridge, Water’s Edge does all but bring the restaurant to you, offering a free ferry service from the 23rd Street piers, with a free glass of champagne to boot.
Crossing the East River, the ferry passes one of my favorite spots in the city, Roosevelt Island. All in all, the boat ride is roughly fifteen minutes in length, just enough time to enjoy a panoramic view of uptown, Williamsburg, Roosevelt Island, and Queens. Chelsea and I both enjoy being on the water, although I can’t attest to how rough the East River usually is; the night we visited Water’s Edge the river was extra choppy due to a thunderstorm. It was a wonderful experience, with a view unavailable almost anywhere else in the city.
After disembarking from the boat and walking up the gangway to the restaurant, we were seated, as guests of the restaurant, near the large row of windows facing Manhattan. Not once during our meal did we tire of the view, especially as it got dark. As we pored over the menu, our waiter brought out our bread, a combination of raisin walnut wheat bread and olive bread. The olive bread had the texture and consistency of a good bagel, while the raisin walnut wheat roll was a wonderful combination of earthy wheat and nut, balanced with sweet raisins. For our pre-meal drink, I had a vodka martini and Chelsea enjoyed a gimlet, a drink made from either vodka or gin (in her case, it was vodka) and lime juice.
For our appetizers, we tried three separate items: corn bisque, panko-crusted oysters, and the beet salad. The corn bisque was sweet – Chelsea thought it was too sweet, while I thought it seemed like a recipe from the South – with chunks of crab meat throughout. The panko-crusted oysters really served as the only disappointment of the night, not in the breading (which was really good) or in its presentation (served atop guacamole and endives), but just in the oysters not tasting good. Still, endives and guacamole make for a surprisingly delicious combination.
The last appetizer was the easy and agreed-upon winner, a three-layer tower of red and golden beets topped with goat cheese mousse (torched on top like a crème brulee), surrounded by lamb’s lettuce and a balsamic reduction. It was a combination of some of my favorite things – balsamic vinegar, beets, and goat cheese. The tart yet creamy cheese met perfectly with the savory and slight natural sweetness of the beets, with the vinaigrette adding an extra sweet tang to the dish. As far as appetizers go, this was definitely one for the record books.
We were floored by the wine selection – there’s even a bottle from 1950’s available, if you want to splurge on something truly vintage – but we kept our choices simple. I had a Pinot Grigio from the Californian vineyard owned by one Francis Ford Coppola. While I’m not a fan of most of his work as a director, his wine is top-notch, a bright and crisp white that went well with my entrée. Chelsea had a Chilean Sauvignon Blanc, slightly sweeter than my choice, but still great.
Chelsea chose as her entrée the filet mignon, which could literally be cut with a fork. Its presentation atop a root vegetable hash (consisting of white and sweet potatoes) made for hearty fare. To go with my Pinot Grigio, I enjoyed a red snapper filet, served with fingerling potatoes and broccoli rabe (opening photo). The fingerling potatoes had a slight natural sweetness to them not found in the fingerling’s bigger brother, while the rabe is bitter and strong. The snapper itself was great, salty around the edges, but tender and enjoyable.
For dessert, I had the banana bread pudding, prepared in the traditional manner. It was good, but a little too rich for me to finish. Chelsea had the crème brulee, a tested classic, but one that is never executed poorly. It was no exception at Water’s Edge, served in the usual ceramic dish, light yet rich, with its crisp sugary top. To finish, I enjoyed a blueberry port, which I found to be a pleasant departure from the regular fortified wines.
When it is all said and done, Water’s Edge is much more than the gimmick of being reachable by ferry – as fun and breathtaking as that is. It is actually a great restaurant. We toured the facility upstairs, which can be rented out for parties and banquets. Imagine a wedding reception overlooking one of the greatest views in the civilized world – with great food and a staggeringly large wine selection.
As we returned to Manhattan from Long Island City, our meal felt a little more like an adventure. We were still mesmerized by the whole experience. Water’s Edge doesn’t try to reinvent the wheel; they don’t need to. Instead, they offer some of the best haute cuisine in the city, with the added bonuses of a friendly wait staff, a free boat ride, and an elegant atmosphere. The best part is still the view, sitting detached from the chaos of the city, making it one of the most relaxing spots in the outer boroughs.
Water’s Edge
The East River at 44th Drive
Long Island City
718-482-0033
www.watersedgenyc.com
Photos: Chelsea Herman
