In January 2009, my husband and I celebrated our wedding anniversary with a wonderful meal at Fiamma, Fabio Trabocchi’s restaurant on Spring Street in New York City. We knew something was up when, as we were leaving, the wait staff presented us with a copy of Traboccchi’s cookbook, Cucina of Le Marche. A few days after our visit, the restaurant closed. After a brief stop at the Four Seasons, Trabocchi, in an interview with Gael Greene, admitted that he had a “rocky time” in New York. It turns out that New York’s loss is Washington’s gain. Returning to the area where he initially found success (Maesto in Tysons Corner), Trabocchi in April opened Fiola, where fans can once again enjoy, among other dishes, his famous lasagna.

Fiola (the name translates as “sweetheart”) in DC’s Penn Quarter has quickly become a place to see and be seen in DC. When we arrived, the front bar was buzzing with people waiting for tables or enjoying cocktails created by mixologist and bar manager Jeff Faile. (At Fiola, the drinks are as important as the food. We love the names of the specialty cocktails—Signore, Point to Ponder, Milan Mule, Old Pal). Those who arrive without a reservation can often find seating in the large bar area to enjoy small bites or select from the regular menu.

The dining room is expansive, with stone walls, chandeliers, U-shaped banquettes, and arched windows that provide a glimpse into the working kitchen. A private dining room in the rear is available for larger gatherings.

We relaxed with our drinks (a martini and a glass of Amarone Corte Majoli, for $17), and studied the menu. Rather than crusty Italian bread, we were served small, croissant-like flaky, buttery buns. We began with one of the specials, a lobster salad. (Our waiter explained that the seafood was “special” because it came from the spiny lobster prevalent in Europe). Served in the shell, the lobster meat was tender and succulent, sweeter than the Maine variety, and was enhanced by the tomatoes, black olives, and capers that added kick and color.

We were tempted by several of Trabocchi’s pasta offerings, but knew we couldn’t miss vincisgrassi, the lasagna of Le Marche, the region of Trabocchi’s birth. Forget heavy, stick to the ribs lasagna. Trabocchi’s version, surrounded by foam, was light, the eggy pasta resembling a crepe.

Since our first two courses were rather light, we opted for a substantial main course: porchetta for two, another special. The dish arrived at our table still sizzling in an oblong copper pan, sending up an irresistible aroma. The roast pork didn’t disappoint. The meat was juicy, the skin crisp.

For a side dish we chose sauteed spinach served in a cream sauce, a perfect compliment for the meat. We enjoyed glasses of Arneis Brovia ($11). For dessert, we shared the bomboloni, Italian donuts, followed by espressos and after dinner glasses of Valdisanti.

While Fiola has tables for two, carrying on a quiet conversation is difficult in the cavernous dining hall. Sound seems to bounce off the stone walls, and the U-shaped banquettes quickly fill up with large, boisterous groups. Fiola might not be the best choice for that romantic anniversary meal, but certainly fits the bill for a fabulous night out with friends.

As we were leaving, we spied Trabocchi’s cookbook on sale. Thankfully, the staff wasn’t handing out copies. Fiola, we assume, is in DC to stay.

Fiola
601 Pennsylvania Avenue NW (entrance on Indiana Avenue)
202-628-2888

Go to Amazon to buy a copy of Fabio Trabocchi’s cookbook, Cucina of Le Marche: A Chef’s Treasury of Recipes from Italy’s Last Culinary Frontier