Located amidst the thriving bustle of not-quite Mid-Town and not-quite Georgetown, The Blue Duck Tavern, attached to the Park Hyatt Hotel, is a DC destination that is not to be missed. So when I was recently asked to dine with Renee Sharrow, Director of Public Relations for The Blue Duck and the Park Hyatt, I couldn’t say yes fast enough. Hiding behind an enormous set of 10 foot black lacquered wooden doors that reflect the colonial heritage of the city, The Blue Duck welcomes guests into a bright, modern space where both a smaller pastry kitchen, and Chef Brian McBride’s enormous main kitchen are wide-open and in full view to diners. In addition to the main dining room is a spacious outdoor patio opens out onto 24th Street, as well as a sleek bar area, and a ‘tea bar’ where guests and patrons can enjoy a cup of house made tea to order.
Although I’ll definitely make plans to head back to the bar at a future time, this night I wasn’t interested in just a quick bite, but to check out The Blue Duck’s reputation for locally-sourced meat and produce, not to mention the magical namesake French fries! As Renee and I took our seats at a table facing the kitchen, I couldn’t help but notice that the dining room was packed, and everyone seemed to be in very high spirits; conversations were boisterous and animated laughter was audible everywhere—the neighborhood feeling and environment of The Blue Duck was clearly contagious and I could feel the energy.
After ordering a glass of wine, we turned our attention to the menu. Known for offering classic Americana fare, Renee explained that the menu at The Blue Duck features meat, fish, poultry and vegetables prepared with classic techniques such as braising, preserving, smoking and brining, and that to celebrate the origins of the food, the source farm (or waterway) of each dish is highlighted on the menu. In the mood for seafood, I opted to try the Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes (prepared with Maryland’s finest Chesapeake Bay Blue Crab), while Renee went for Wood Burning Oven Roasted Maine Scallops with Lemon and Thyme from Viking Village, Maine. We also decided to try the Roasted Beet Salad with Endive, Apples, Walnuts and Humboldt Fog Goat Cheese, as well as the House Smoked Columbia River Sturgeon Rillette with Hackleback Caviar. And as if all of this wasn’t enough—an order of Hand Cut BDT Triple Fries (cooked in duck fat!) was obligatory. Obviously.
As soon as our first courses arrived, we jumped in eagerly. The beet salad was delicate, flavorful, and had a good kick with spicy walnuts. And although I’ve never tried before, the smoked rillettes was creamy and rich with chunks of sturgeon and a mellow, smokiness that paired well with the crusty house bread or crispy, garlicky toasts. Offering a very robust selection that should appeal to everyone from staunch meat eaters to adventurous vegetarians, other options on the menu that sounded delicious include Oven Roasted Bone Marrow; a crispy soft-shell crab BLT; Braised Beef Rib with a homemade steak sauce; Braised Red Endive with Fennel Marmalade; and Chestnut Cannelloni with Brussel Sprouts. And, Renee explained, the chefs are always testing out new dishes which we got to witness first hand.
Just as we were enjoying our opening dishes, Chef de Cuisine Eric Fleischer brought out a special dish he had been testing in the kitchen—Smoked Sweetbreads with carrot puree, solar carrots, currants, pancetta and red wine veal jus. Now, I like to eat, but I endearingly consider myself a cautious foodie, and sweetbreads have always been one of those things I’ve enjoyed hearing about in recipes, but never really been sure I wanted (or could!) try in real practice. Turns out, I was wrong, and I’m particularly glad that my first encounter with them was at The Blue Duck. Perfectly golden brown and crispy, the sweetbreads had an intense smoky flavor that was offset by the veal jus glaze and creamy sweetness of the carrots, and I was happily surprised that with both the flavor, and myself for enjoying them. I know I’ll probably never be the woman who goes for sweetbreads as a first choice (or potentially even second or third!), but having been given the chance to try this delicacy, I know I won’t ever regret it.
Shortly after finishing up our starter courses, the entrees arrived. My crab cakes, served with a Frisee and Fennel Sweet Mustard Salad, were gorgeous, golden brown medallions of lump crab with a delicate and sweet flavor that I’d put them up against any Baltimore crab joint for authentic taste and true Maryland flavor.
Renee’s scallops, roasted to a perfect finish in The Blue Duck’s enormous wood-burning fireplace, were bright and refreshing bathed in lemon and thyme.
And oh the fries! It’s true that I’ve rarely met a fry that I haven’t liked, but the fries at The Blue Duck weren’t your average potato. Hand cut and thick, The Blue Duck’s Triple Fries arrived tableside in a charming serving dish that looked like a miniature kitchen pot, and were crispy, crunchy, hot and in a word—divine! Diets can wait and there’s always tomorrow to run an extra mile but whatever you do, don’t pass up the fries.
Just as I was wondering if I could possibly get up from the table, Renee insisted we try one of The Blue Duck’s irresistible desserts; in particular, the apple pie. And after having gotten a glimpse of them in the pastry kitchen on my way into the restaurant, who was I to say no? Available in two sizes, a smaller version which is perfect for 2 to 4 people, as well as a larger size that would be ideal for a party or larger gathering, the pie was stuffed with chunks of cinnamon-scented apples, and topped with a crispy, caramel crumble that I honestly think might be addictive, but I’m telling you—what a way to go. And if apple pie isn’t your thing, no worries. The Blue Duck offers a wide range of options including Chocolate Cake, Carrot Bread Pudding, Pecan and Date Tart, Old Fashioned Sugar Cookies (in an adorable tin), as well as homemade ice cream, sorbets and caramel sauce.
Open for lunch and dinner every day, as well as brunch on the weekends, The Blue Duck Tavern offers a fantastic downtown location, exquisite food, a great selection of wine and cocktails, and now that the summer is here—patio space just waiting to be enjoyed, so what are you waiting for?
Blue Duck Tavern
1201 24th Street NW
202-419-6755
www.blueducktavern.com
