Even though I am up in Bethesda often to meet my Maryland friends, I hadn’t yet made it to Redwood in Bethesda Row. So when fortune intervened in the shape of an invitation to meet a new friend for a complimentary tasting of the Redwood menu for this article, I eagerly jumped at the chance.
Located in the lovely Bethesda Row shopping area, Redwood is a warm, inviting space set-off with dark wood, high, exposed ceilings, shiny floors and an enormous wood-burning fireplace. Started by Jared Rager (owner of the now closed Mendocino Grill, as well as Sonoma Restaurant and Wine Bar in Capital Hill, and the soon to open Blue Ridge in Glover Park) in 2009, Redwood features a diverse and delicious menu with choices that range from cheese and pate, to seafood, to meats, and everything in between. An avid supporter of local producers, Rager strives to always offer food options that are organic, naturally-raised and sustainable whenever possible, as well as small production wines from across the globe that are economically viable, socially supportable, and ecologically sound.
Immediately inside the building and to the right was the bar, with a good amount of seating bar-side, as well and low-slung leather chairs to accommodate both smaller, intimate dates as well as bigger groups. And even though happy hour was winding down, the bar was still lively and the crowd seemed to be in high spirits. Redwood serves lunch and dinner all week, jazz brunch on Sunday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., and if it’s happy hour you are seeking, the restaurant hosts one of the best in Bethesda nearly every night. Monday through Friday from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m.; Monday to Thursday from 9 p.m. to close; and Sunday from 8 p.m. to close you can enjoy $4 to $5 drink and food specials in the bar.
The dining room, an open, airy room with well-spaced tables and a beautiful wall of bright windows was quieter, but with no less happy patrons than the bar. When my friend finally arrived after battling unforeseen traffic woes on Foxhall Road, we started with wine—me the Angeline Pinot Noir from California and my friend the Argyle Pinot from Oregon, and then we dived into the real reason we were there—the food!
To start, I opted for the Roasted Baby Beet and Arugula Salad while my friend went with our waiter Sean’s suggestion of a selection of cheeses and chicken liver pate. Both were excellent. My salad, crisp arugula offset with delightfully salty and crunchy pistachios, baby gold and red beets, and slices of shaved cherry glen chevre was fresh and bright, and sized perfectly for a starter.
The cheese platter, a mixture of three cheeses and house-made brandied chicken liver pate, served with chewy flat breads and crackers was rich and fragrant, and made an elegant presentation when it arrived to our table on a plank cutting board.
For our entrée selections, I decided to try the Pan Roasted Rockfish, served with butternut squash and wilted kale while my dining partner opted for the Atlantic Cod, pan roasted with beluga lentils, savoy cabbage, caraway carrots and lobster butter. In a word…or, ok – three words: both were divine. My fish was light and flakey with a beautiful golden brown crust, and served on a bed of diced butternut squash and wilted kale, as well as with whipped squash on the side.
The Atlantic Cod came dressed with a glistening lobster butter, nestled on top of the vegetable mixture of lentils, cabbage and carrots, and was also roasted to a crispy golden brown. Although this trip I went for seafood, the meat options on the Redwood menu were diverse, and I’m already pondering when I can return to try a few other dishes, especially the Steak Frites and the Grilled Pork Loin.
Although by now I didn’t think I had even the smallest dessert pocket, when Sean placed the menu in front of me and my eyes saw Salted Caramel and Ganache Tart, I realized resisting was pointless. Who could say no?? Furthermore, who would want to? The tart consisted of salty, chewy caramel with a flaky chocolate crust and served with candied kumquats and vanilla ice cream, was—for me—everything a dessert should be: decadent yet with a good balance of flavors, and the perfect size. It was all I could do to not ask for another one to bring home!
Going to the other end of the dessert spectrum, my friend chose Pineapple Upside Down Cake: light and refreshing with chunks of pineapple, brown sugar caramel and vanilla ice cream, and both were the perfect ending to our meals. In all, our evening was lovely with great conversation and great food, and the verdict is in: the next time I’m in Bethesda, it’s at Redwood I’m going to insist we dine.
Redwoods
7121 Bethesda Lane
301-656-5515
For more information visit Redwood’s website
