Tourists coming to Les Halles on Park Avenue hoping to catch a glimpse of super chef Anthony Bourdain will be disappointed. They won’t, however, be disappointed with their experience. The food is wonderful, the crowd spirited, the help gracious, and the atmosphere as close as one can come to partying in a French bistro. This is not the place to choose for that quiet romantic dinner. But if you are with a group of friends looking for good food and a good time, Les Halles is a sure bet.

Bourdain is still listed as chef-at-large, a moniker that has earned him some criticism in the restaurant business. (An editor at large title often gives a writer the freedom to go where she pleases and write about what strikes her as interesting. So perhaps this is Bourdain’s role with Les Halles, dropping in whenever he desires or is needed, but able to pursue his many other ventures). Even if Bourdain is no longer present to guide the restaurant day-to-day, patrons still expect Les Halles to deliver. And it does.

This is hearty bistro fare. (We doubt that Mireille Guiliano, author of French Women Don’t Get Fat, is a regular). While you can eat light by sticking to salads and fish, how can one resists the steaks and French fries?

We took a table inside near a display case filled with prime meats, a preview of what was to come. Our four appetizers got us off to a good start. The terrine maison, the house made country pate, was not the smooth kind for spreading on crackers, but the coarse, hearty version with texture and flavor. Other good choices included the escargots, snails in butter, the smoked salmon, and the foie gras sauteed with apple, walnuts and Calvados sauce.

Steak was the order of the day for main courses. All beef served at Les Halles is certified Angus beef, dry aged. One member of our party ordered the steak tartare, not for the faint of heart. Prepared tableside, our waiter deftly mixed the raw meat with a raw egg, chopped onions, and other ingredients, pushed it into a mound on the plate and presented it with a flourish. The filet mignon was pronounced the best ever, tender enough to cut with a fork. The steak au poiuvre, served medium rare, had the peppery crust providing crunch and heat.

Departing from the meat theme, the fourth member of our group enjoyed a bistro favorite, mussels steamed in white wine. The mussels were fresh and tender, the sauce, flavored with shallots pungent. All entrees were served with Les Halles French fries, the best reason for going off our diets. They were hot, crisp, and a perfect accompaniment for our entrees.

We shared two desserts, the apple tart with vanilla ice cream and the traditional crepes suzettes. Finishing off a wonderful meal with a flaming dessert was perfect.

Les Halles
Type of Food: French
411 Park Avenue South, between 28th and 29th Streets
212-679-4111
www.leshalles.net

Romantic-3                            Child Friendly–1
Girls’ Night Out-4                 Solo Dining—2
Business Dining—3             Visitors Welcome—4
Dress Code—Business        Budget—Expensive
Casual