Marseille, a port city in France and the country’s gateway to the Mediterranean, also celebrates foods from Italy, Greece, and North Africa. Marseille, the restaurant in Hell’s Kitchen is New York’s gateway for enjoying the melding of these cuisines in a lively setting. Before 8 p.m., Marseille bustles with the pre-theater dinner crowd. After 8 p.m., diners can catch their breath and eat at a more leisurely pace.

Marseille is a beautiful restaurant with huge arrangements of flowers in every nook, romantic lighting, and an attractive bar area. The waiters are friendly and efficient (a necessity when most guests are going to the theater) yet the service never feels rushed. During one visit, there were just two of us and on another occasion, there were five in our party. Even though one person in our party arrived late, the staff rushed to accommodate us so we would still be out the door on time.

The restaurant offers a three-course prix fixe pre-theater menu for $30. When we dined, there was also a summer restaurant week three-course prix fixe for $35. Each menu offers enough variety to enjoy Marseilles’ eclectic mix of foods. And the prices are certainly attractive for fine dining in the theater district.

When two of us ate at Marseille, we ordered a la carte. The French influence is dominant, so don’t miss the Bouillabaisse with Atlantic coast fish and shellfish, potatoes, leeks and rouille, a creamy sauce of garlic and hot pepper, or the steak frites—hanger steak with béarnaise sauce. We enjoyed the smoked salmon and grilled asparagus as appetizers. For dessert, we indulged in a strawberry Bavarois with rhubarb compote and honey tangerine.

In the larger group, we opted for prix fixe menus and, with five ordering, most everything on the menu was covered. A standout was the lamb couscous, showcasing the restaurant’s Moroccan influence, and, from Italy, the garganelli pasta with zucchini, squash blossoms, goat cheese, parmesan, lemon, and basil.

The night our group visited, torrential rains created rivers on the sidewalks. Marseille, the port city, became a port in the storm for many New Yorkers. Some stayed to dine or enjoy a drink. Others looked around approvingly. The storm washed them ashore, but we knew many of them would return.

Marseille
Type of food: French
630 Ninth Avenue, at 44th Street
212-333-2323
www.marseillenyc.com

Romantic—4                              Child Friendly–2
Girls’ Night Out—4                   Solo Dining—2
Business Dining—4                  Visitors Welcome—4
Dress Code—Business             Budget—Expensive
Casual