If you are looking for an Easter Tasting Menu bargain ($65 per person) for yourself and your family, or just a reasonably priced, three course daily Prix Fixe ($42), check out Quattro Gastronomia Italiana (Quattro), an ambitious northern Italian restaurant tempting both in-town and out-of-town guests. Tucked into the ground floor of the David Rockwell-designed Trump Hotel located on the western fringe of Soho, it’s just a few blocks south of Film Forum, and a definite change of pace from the usual Soho eateries.
The bar area is inviting in a glamorous, glittering way and I intend to return one evening to sample their martini, but on a foggy night in New York town we were ready to try some of the traditional dishes and ingredients of Piedmont executed by Chef Fabrizio Carro. He and his identical twin, Nicola, began their culinary careers in their native Piedmont, and successfully brought their recipes to Miami’s South Beach where Nicola remains. A year ago, Fabrizio opened Quattro.
It’s a soaring space with a second-level balcony that overlooks the dining room and an unusual décor of dark green subway tiles, Murano-like glass chandeliers and a dividing wall of green wine bottles.
As we contemplated the menu, we enjoyed the excellent, freshly-baked breads (foccacia and mini ciabatti are made in-house) and proprietary olive oil as well as a glass of the first-rate house Chianti.
It was hard to choose among so many tempting Antipasti but since Vitello Tonnato Con Capperi, (thinly sliced veal with tuna sauce and capers), $11, is a dish my mother used to make to perfection, I couldn’t resist comparing Chef Carro’s to hers. I’m happy to report that it was every bit as richly delicious, which in my experience is as rare as snow in summer. We scraped the plate.
Next came Tartar Di Filetto All’Albese (tartar of filet mignon with traditional condiments prepared tableside), $14, at the chef’s suggestion. Clare, our very competent and friendly waitperson, did the honors as she mixed a quail egg, lemon juice, Djon mustard, parsley, pickled shallots, and capers accompanied by crispy Italian flatbread. Although the quality of the beef was impeccable, there was a touch too much lemon for both of us, and probably not something I would try again.
However, the Parmagiana Di Melanzane In Forma (Baked Eggplant Layered with Tomato Sauce, Melted Mozzarella and Basil), $12, was outstanding. Not only was the dish, with its light but well-seasoned sauce, a taste treat but a visual one as well, nestled in its small red casserole. Another winner, although much lighter and delicate, was an unusual salad, Branzino Marinato Alle Vongole Veraci E Salsa Di Limoni (Brazino and Manila Clams Poached with Thyme and Extra Virgin Olive Oil), $14. The perfectly poached clams were the size of my fingernail, and the Mediterranean fish subtly sauced.


As guests of the chef we placed ourselves in his hands when it came to the Primi Piatti of handmade pastas. Our favorite, hands down, was the familiar but well executed Strozzapreti Al Ragu Di Salsiccia (Pasta with Italian Sausage Ragu), $16, which was rich, well seasoned and satisfying. Next came the Garganelli Con Gamberi, Olive Di Castel Vetrano E Pomodorni (Shrimp, Olives and Cherry Tomatoes) $16. Although the shrimp were perfectly cooked, the dish was under-seasoned and the sauce lacked intensity and heft. Unfortunately, the Raviolini Del Plin Al Porcini (Porcini Mushroom Raviolini with Porcini Sauce and Parmesan Cheese), $17, normally my favorite, came in a distant third.
The Secondi Piatti offered everything from Bocconcini De Vitllello Con Patate Lionesi E Rapini (Veal Stuffed with Parmesan, Lyonesse Potatoes and Sauteed Broccoli Rabe) $26, Branzino baked in an Italian salt crust, $32, to Grilled Swordfish, $28, and Veal Chop Milanese, $34, but we opted for Fiorentine Di Agnello Con Finferli E Piselli (Colorado Lamb Florentine with English Peas and Chanterelle Mushrooms) $26. It’s a satisfying dish, with a slightly different cut of lamb than we are used to in our chops (a bit more chewy), but again I wished there had been a bit more zing to the seasoning.


Normally, Italian restaurants do not shine in the dessert department, but Quattro is blessed with an extraordinary Pastry Chef, Antonio Bachour, one of the top ten in the U.S. . Each of the dishes we sampled were extraordinary in different ways. The Rhubarb Soup with Yoghurt Sorbet and Fresh Fruits, $8, was amazingly delicate with that wonderful mix of sweet and sour which is the hallmark of great rhubarb dishes, and a wonderful way to end a rich meal. The Chocolate Tasting of Cake, Chocolate Caramel Crostata, Dark Chocolate Mousse with Nutella Gelato, $14, was as delicious as it was beautiful. Another winner. And the Baked Lemon Meringue Sandwich with Raspberry Sorbet, $8, was wittily presented and, if you are a lemon person, as I am, hauntingly delicious.
All my favorite dishes are on the Prix Fixe, and the next time I’m in the neighborhood I plan to return.
QUATTRO Gastronomia Italiana
246 Spring Street (Ground Floor of the Trump Soho Hotel), between 6th Avenue Varick Street
212- 842-4500
www.quattronewyork.com













What a feast! I can’t wait to try.