Born in El Salvador and raised in the East Village, chef Ricardo Cardona (of Sazon, Sofrito and Gabbana) has been developing Manhattan’s Nuevo Latino cuisine for years. Now, he uses his talents to head up the kitchen of Scarpina Bar & Grill, the recently opened Mediterranean-Latin fusion spot right off of Union Square (88 University Place).
The idea came about last summer when Cardona traveled the Mediterranean and discovered the strong similarities between the region and Latin America—most notably in flavor and ingredients. Commonalities include cumin (used often in Cuban cuisine), eggplant (in babaganousch), garbanzo beans (found in Israel), cilantro and mint. Israel even has a fish dish similar to Latin ceviche.
It didn’t stop there. In Tel Aviv, Cardona ate a meal with Bachata music blaring in the background. He also describes an instance in one underground bar when he asked for the meaning of Hebrew inscriptions along the wall, and they turned out to be the works of Chilean poet Pablo Neruda.
Nino Selimaj (the owner of Nino restaurants throughout the city, including Nino’s on First Avenue, Nino’s Positano and Nino’s Tuscany) partnered with Cardona to open up the food concept in the former Osso Bucco location.
Scarpina has an extensive, multi-level space with earth tones and branches engulfing the columns that divide the different tiers. The bar and a window-side eating area sit near the entrance. Behind that is simple wood furniture, vintage metallic-framed mirrors, lighted stairs, and walls lined with wines hailing from Argentina, Chile, Greece, Italy, Israel, Lebanon, South Africa, Spain and Turkey.
After opening in early November, Cardona has built a solid menu that shuttles you back and forth from Union Square, to the warmness of Latin America, and then to the rich, centuries-old destinations of the Mediterranean. Scarpina is ideal for separating yourself from the city noise of BlackBerry calls and after-work chatter, and escaping into the relaxing melodies of Mediterranean dance music and salsa.
Start with a spread of meze, traditional Greek dips, served with warm flatbread and olives. The three bean hummus replaces chickpeas with a smart blend of garbanzos, pinto and white beans. The taramosalata, a Greek salmon caviar spread, has a fresh sea taste, and the tzatziki packs a whopping dill kick. Babaganousch incorporates Latin spices as well, with a sesame seed base.
The ceviches successfully combine strong flavors without one overpowering the other—and the authenticity of each can send you away to the home-style dinners served across South America. They come with yucca chips, individually or in a sampler trio. Branzino ceviche is prepared in a simplistic Peruvian style with just a hint of jalapeño-infused vinegar and citrus juice. Shrimp ceviche is fire roasted in tomato mojo with the typical guacamole chunks on top. Pomegranate juice and mint add to the salmon variation.
Kebabs (also known as “pinchos” in some Latin cultures) are found in both Mediterranean and Latin cuisine. At Scarpina, you have the choice of chicken, spicy shrimp, lamb and Portobello mushroom—all perfectly seasoned with fresh herbs, and served in a stylish vertical arrangement. Cardona masters making each meat so tender and juicy that all can be eaten alone, even without the variety of dipping sauces available, which include garlic aoli, yogurt and herb, and tahini sauce.
The entrée portions are healthy, and most come under the 20-buck mark. The crispy, boneless scarpina, another successful fusion and the restaurant’s namesake, is stuffed with crab, scallops, shrimp and basmati coconut rice. The light, airy Mediterranean fish is complemented with the common Latin mix of tomato and spices.
The signature veal churrasco wraps a tender skirt steak swimming in rich sauce around a mountain of broccoli rabe and truffled mashed potatoes.
For dessert, the panna cotta is creatively paired with strawberries marinated in cognac, very thick and creamy with the plain dairy flavor lending more to the fruit.
The vanilla bean crème brulee is less inspired, but still as well-done as those served in French haunts around Manhattan.
Scarpina’s signature cocktails take on a diverse collection of names, from the present (University Place and Social Network) to far-off places (Kefalonia, Corsica, and Tango in La Havana). The majority contain typical liquors with the added punch of sweet and tropical fruit such as coconut, pomegranate, blueberries, pears and apricots.
The restaurant reminds me of the relaxed, cool vibe from old backpacking trips—a nice evening getaway of inventive tastes and a lively spirit.
Open for lunch and dinner nightly, serving from 11:45 a.m. to 3 p.m. seven days a week, 5 p.m. to midnight, Monday through Thursday, 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. Friday through Saturday, and 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. on Sunday.
For reservations, call 212-645-4525. For more information, visit www.ScarpinaNYC.com
Photos: William Lopez
