If you do any walking in Manhattan, you probably pass one several times a day. The door is usually open allowing you to peer into the darkness past the bar sprinkled with a few lonely regulars hunched over their drinks and into the gloomy dining room in the back. Yes, it is the classic “old man’s bar.” It almost always has an Irish name (usually paired with the word Blarney). I have often wondered who, besides an unsuspecting tourist, eats at these places. The answer may surprise you.

Last week, several friends and I went out for a quick meal. We landed at Donohue’s Steak House, an authentic “old man’s bar” on Lexington Avenue. Working our way past the crowded bar, we headed back to the restaurant expecting to be seated right away. We were greeted by a no nonsense waitress who asked if we had reservations. Reservations? We were dumbfounded. We looked around and noticed there wasn’t a table available, and according to the waitress there wouldn’t be for several hours.

After several attempts to get a reservation, we finally made it to Donohue’s. Understandably, our expectations were high. We were shown to one of the ten booths in the back and felt transported to the 1950s, when Donohue’s first opened its doors. The dining room, though furnished in mid-century vinyl with wood veneer paneling, was comfortable and inviting. It was filled with neighborhood regulars, all of which greeted us when we entered. Life suddenly seemed simpler.

A basket of hot, fresh bread was brought to the table as we looked over the menu. With appetizers like “Individual Can of Sardines” and entrees including Calves Liver and Onions, we knew the décor wasn’t the only thing about Donohue’s that hadn’t changed in 50 years. Simplicity was the rule; when we asked our waitress if there was wine by the glass, she replied, “Yes. We have red or white.” We took the white, which was surprisingly good. Several of us ordered hamburgers, which were listed four separate times on the menu (Hamburger, Hamburger with French Fries, Hamburger with Cheese, Hamburger with Cheese and French Fries), making us wonder if the idea of offering side dishes didn’t occur to anyone until McDonald’s came along.

The burgers were hot and juicy on a toasted bun with just the right amount of bread. The French Fries (really Steak Fries) were everyone’s favorite – super hot and crispy with a good potato taste. We also sampled the open-faced roast beef au jus, which was declared excellent (although the jus was a bit too thick) and the simple, but real, turkey sandwich, which was moist and flavorful. Most surprising to us was the good and reasonably priced bottled wine list, if you require something more than “red or white”.

While the food was good, we realized that most people go to Donohue’s for the comfort of being surrounded by neighbors, even neighbors just being met for the first time. The night we were there, a famous TV journalist was at the bar having dinner. He didn’t turn heads, he was not treated like a celebrity; he was just another neighbor who came to watch the game and share conversation with some friendly faces. This is the reason it’s so hard to get in. Simple, but good food with simple, but good neighbors. You should try it. If you can get a reservation.

Donohue’s Steak House is located at 845 Lexington Avenue New York, NY 10065-6611. Call  (212) 744-0938 for reservations.