Las Vegas was Frank Sinatra’s town and Steve Wynn was one of his good friends. So it’s no surprise to find the restaurant Sinatra’s in Encore, Steve Wynn’s beautiful hotel on the strip. What was surprising on our recent visit was finding Steve Wynn himself standing in front of us with a group of business people, waiting to be seated. What better recommendation was needed?

Time After Time

Actually, we didn’t need to be convinced. We were visiting Sinatra’s for our third time. It’s fast becoming one of our favorite restaurants in Vegas. Tucked into a corner of Encore, getting to Sinatra’s is half the fun. Encore is one of several hotels on the strip that seems to attract a better dressed upscale crowd. So people watching while walking through the lobby and casino to the restaurant is a definite perk. (Nothing like observing women in jewels playing craps).

Sentimental Journey

At the entrance to the restaurant is a glass case that holds Sinatra’s Academy Award for his performance in From Here to Eternity. Yes, the Oscar is the actual statue Sinatra held on that night in 1953. A photo behind the statue shows Sinatra celebrating with his Eternity co-star, Donna Reed, who also won an Oscar for the film. According to a report in the Las Vegas Review-Journal, Wynn’s powers of persuasion convinced the Sinatra family to allow him to display the trophy in the restaurant. Initially, daughter Tina Sinatra was concerned about security. No need to worry. The display case is very sturdy. Wynn was so successful in his appeals, that the family also granted him possession of one of Sinatra’s Emmys and a Grammy, both on display. The restaurant’s red exterior wall includes photos of Sinatra and Wynn, along with one of the singer’s gold records. Browsing this mini-Sinatra museum is a good way to pass the time while waiting for a table and serves to get everyone in the mood for what waits inside.

What’ll I Do?

If there’s time, have a drink at the bar. Chances are one of Sinatra’s films will be playing on the flat screen TV. (During March Madness, basketball games were playing rather than Frank, but since we’re fans, that was okay with us). We love the bar area (it’s easy to engage the bartender, maitre d’ or staff in conversation about Sinatra) and on a previous visit to Vegas stopped in for a drink on our way to another restaurant.

On our visit, we were seated on time, so we just had time to glance at the glass case and the bar. At 7:30, the restaurant was filled with a lively, well-dressed crowd. (On Yelp, one woman angrily posted that the restaurant refused to seat her and her party because they were wearing “athletic clothing.” So be advised: business dress or better is required and the rule is strictly enforced).

Sinatra’s main dining room is elegant without seeming pretentious. The cream-colored walls are nicely accented with coral tablecloths and chairs that are comfortably cushioned. Ol’ Blue Eyes, striking familiar poses, stares down from several oversized portraits.

Someone to Watch Over Me

We were seated in the restaurant’s back room, a place others might consider Siberia, but the area we prefer. With only four tables and a view to the back garden, it’s possible to carry on a quiet conversation while still listening to Sinatra sing. We enjoyed excellent service, never feeling we were being ignored. We ordered drinks, enjoyed the ambiance, and studied the menu.

The kitchen at Sinatra’s is in good hands. Theo Schoenegger, previously executive chef at Patina in Los Angeles, has brought “California flair” to Italian food. The menu is still filled with old favorites, but Schoenegger makes good use of fresh, seasonal ingredients. Don’t be misled by his last name. Schoenegger is Italian, grew up eating and cooking Italian food and knows he will be serving a knowledgeable, discriminating audience.

From This Moment On

We shared two appetizers. The first, carpaccio, thinly sliced beef tenderloin, was served with salsa verde, wild arugula, shaved parmigiano, and croutons. One member of our party is a carpaccio fan, her standard starter no matter where she dines. She pronounced Sinatra’s the best she has ever had. Next, we enjoyed “Frank’s clams Posillipo,” little neck clams with tomato sauce, parsley, garlic, and oregano. The clams were small and tender, and the sauce invited dipping with the crusty Italian bread.

The special pasta that evening was fettuccine with black truffles. We couldn’t resist and were glad we gave in. The pasta was buttery and our server shaved generous portions of truffles over each dish. Heaven.

The Best Is Yet to Come

Our main courses included veal parmigiana, branzino, ossobuco, and grilled tuna. The veal was crispy, with bubbling mozzarella and tomato sauce on top: a good rendition of an Italian classic. The branzino alla Genovese, Mediterranean sea bass, was served with cannellini beans and baby vegetable ragu, and pesto. A dish that truly took advantage of fresh ingredients. Ossobuco “My Way” came with risotto Milanese, topped with gremolata, grated orange and lemon. The final choice, tuna, sushi quality beautifully grilled to a perfect rare, as requested.

It Was a Very Good Year

Sinatra’s boasts an extensive wine list and the sommelier will gladly help you select wines to accompany each course, if you choose to order by the glass, or a well-priced bottle that will go well with all courses. After hearing our price range, he actually suggested a bottle that was less expensive: a red wine from Sicily, Planeta Cerasuolo di Vittoria.

Softly as I Leave You

For dessert, we enjoyed gelati “lollipops,” clever and fun. We relaxed over espresso and listened to Frank sing, already contemplating our next visit.

Sinatra’s
Encore
Las Vegas
702-248-3463