The newly opened Vai Spuntino location in SoHo is a perfect case of an innovative chef seeking to take tapas food to a more sophisticated level. We received a thorough sampling of Vai Spuntino’s exquisite menu, right down to wine pairings for every entree. After we placed our initial order, chef Vincent Chirico introduced himself and asked if either I or my companion had any food allergies. We told him neither of us did; he asked because, as he told us, he would be including his own recommendations into our meal.
The restaurant is beautifully tucked away on Thompson Street, between Spring and Prince. Its space is so small and discreet that we almost walked right by it. Although this gripe is purely cosmetic, I wish the restaurant had space for outdoor seating – not that we would have wanted to eat outside, as it was pouring rain the night we visited. As far as décor, Vai Spuntino is a beautiful eatery. The lighting is provided by candles in amber-colored spheres hanging from the ceiling. Although the space is small, some well-placed mirrors give the illusion of depth. The original architecture is respectfully preserved; the crown molding along the textured ceiling gives a nice glimpse of yesteryear. The ambiance is perfect for a date, although (and this is coming from experience) the table is just a tad too long for two diners to share a kiss.
As we pored over the menu, we had fresh baked bread with three different spreads. One was pureed eggplant and olive oil, which reminded me of an extra-smooth baba ghanoush. Another topping was roasted garlic, seasoned to perfection with black pepper. It was chewy, with an underlying sweetness to it. The third spread was mashed cauliflower with crispy garlic on top. The bread was served hot, literally fresh out of the oven.
We started with the hamachi and tuna duo, served with preserved ginger. Although Vai Spuntino specializes in Mediterranean fare, Chirico is just at as much at home preparing an Asian-inspired tartare dish. The hamachi and tuna were savory and slightly sweet, devoid of any cloyingly fishy flavor. Beneath the generously sized serving of fish and ginger was a layer of avocado, perfectly complimenting the rest of the entree with its flavor and texture.
This dish was paired with our initial wine choices; my companion went with a crisp and springy Sauvignon Blanc and I had a dark and peppery tempranillo. While enjoying the fish with red wine, I was reminded of James Bond in From Russia With Love spotting his nemesis being a Soviet agent for a similar act, committing what was (at the time) a culinary faux pas. Oh, how the times have (graciously) changed!
Our salad entree was a unique pairing of flavors: vine ripe tomato and watermelon, with goat cheese cream. It is a combination that seems adventurous on paper, but after one bite it completely makes sense. Topped with chopped walnuts, balsamic vinegar, and parsley, this is a dish that is begging to be consumed on a hot summer’s day. The robust tomatoes and the sweet-yet-spiced watermelon went together excellently, the cream below fleshing it out perfectly. It was a refreshing dish, yet simple in preparation.
The next dish to come out was one of Chirico’s specials: king crab, served in a brown butter sauce. Of the many times I have eaten crab, this is easily the best I have ever had. The chunks of meat were served in their halved shells, making for a very charming and colorful presentation. All in all, the crab meat was a sublime blend of sweet, savory, and just a little salty. The brown butter sauce made for a great dip, both for the meat and the last bit of bread I had.
We received another great shellfish dish with the rock shrimp. They were perfectly plump and juicy, and as I recall saying upon first bite, they were so fresh that I could taste the sea in them. It was a vibrantly colored dish; the shrimp was garnished with an array of seasonings, including guajilo chili pepper. People with sensitive stomachs should not worry, though, as the guajilo is not an especially hot pepper. Slightly milder than a jalapeno, the guajilo has an initial fruitiness followed by a light piquant zing. It made for a nice complement to the shrimp.
Our next dish was a source of division for me and my dining companion: the foie gras, served with white grape raisins. Neither of us had eaten foie gras before, although I am well aware of the ethical controversies surrounding the dish. I found it to be excellent, a heavy variant of pate. Together with the raisins and the sweet sauce, it was a delicious combination of sweet, savory, and salty flavors. It was great by itself, and it was also delicious on the warm bread it came with. For the exact same reasons I liked it, my dining companion found it to be too heavy and too savory.
The recommended wine pairing for the foie gras was a 2007 Moscatel. Now, I loved the foie gras. I also loved the Moscatel, which had an incredibly sweet and fruity flavor, with a musky bouquet. However, the two together was a bit much – too much sweet in one setting. Saving the Moscatel for later, I asked our server for something sparkling and dry, like a Spumante. We found the pairing to be better suited for our palates, although I certainly recognize the Moscatel as an equally fitting companion to the foie gras.
The pasta we ordered was pappardelle, which came in a nice butter sauce with asparagus and grated parmesan. It was a good, heavy pasta, with a light seasoning of black pepper on top. The word pappardelle comes from the Italian verb pappare, which means to eat up. Needless to say, the pasta lived up to its name, disappearing as soon as it was served to us. Similarly, the beef short ribs (another special Chirico served us) were quickly eaten as well. Coming with a bed of fingerling potatoes mixed with cream, this was easily the heaviest entree of the night. It was also delicious – we unfortunately forgot to take a picture of it until there was a single morsel of meat left. The beef was perfect, so tender that it could be cut with a fork. The creamy potatoes were a nice and hearty side to the meat.
We received two dessert dishes. The first were three mini-beignets with a white chocolate dipping sauce. It was enjoyable, but I’m not too big on fried items. I found the passion fruit semifreddo to be one of the best dessert items I’ve ever eaten. It was a divine combination of a sweet and creamy center and an acidic passion fruit sauce. After dessert, I enjoyed a strong espresso, and my companion had a cappuccino.
Being an upscale restaurant, the prices border on the mid-range to high realms. We received our meal and drinks on the house, but I would not hesitate to go back for a special occasion or for a sophisticated date night. It would make for a great meal before a night out on the town, or as a late-night jaunt for dessert and coffee. Not too many restaurants are good at being that versatile, but Vai Spuntino certainly is.
I literally have no complaints about this restaurant. That wine pairing that I quibbled about a moment ago simply boils down to being a matter of taste. The staff was incredibly friendly. Chirico came by our table twice during the meal to ask how everything was. He stayed longer the second time, talking about the expansion down to SoHo and how Vai Spuntino will soon have a sommelier on staff. He told us he didn’t want his restaurant to be “a wine bar” or a tapas restaurant, but instead something a little more elegant – and from our experience, he doesn’t have anything to worry about.
Photos by Chelsea Herman
Vai Spuntino
105 Thompson Street, between Spring and Prince
212-226-1146
