By Robin Weaver

To its frequent patrons, the Beach Cafe is more than just a restaurant — it’s a cozy neighborhood home. A 42-year old institution, the “Beach” has long offered its predominantly Upper East Side patrons a place to have a leisurely dinner or a burger and brew. In the 80′s it was common to find former New York City Mayor John Lindsay dining with his wife Mary or more recently you could spot Daniel Day-Lewis or Liza Minnelli.

But the Beach offers more than the possibility to spot a celebrity. It’s a place to enjoy being with friends — and sometimes even making friends — over good, but unpretentious food. The menu focuses on such standard dishes as hamburgers (the biggest seller), pasta dishes (I counted five on the menu) and steak, salmon and chicken. This may sound uninspired, but what they do, they do well. And, most evenings, you’ll find at least two specials on the menu.

On Monday evenings, there is a lobster/prime rib special for $20.09, but beware: the lobster often runs out by 8 o’clock. But if you really want the fresh Maine lobster, you can phone ahead and reserve one. Dinner reservations are accepted for a 6 p.m. seating only. After 6 p.m., tables are seated first come, first served.

My favorite dish is the poached salmon salad, which is served with a cucumber dill sauce. There are by the way, fifteen salads on the menu. When I’m feeling really indulgent, I order the gorgonzola garlic bread — a well-known specialty from the Beach’s early days — or the chicken parmigiana, served with a side of penne marinara.

Favorite appetizers include the smoked salmon carpaccio served with chopped hard boiled egg whites, fresh dill, chopped onions and capers as well as the fried calamari, which comes with a delicious spicy, marinara sauce.

The Beach has a respectable wine list and provides a range of wine selections by the glass, including several nice cabernets and a Rodney Strong pinot noir.

Patrons don’t come to the Beach for dessert, but there are a few nice ones including a home made brownie served with coffee gelato and a great tiramisu and a creme brulee.

My main criticism of the Beach is the constancy of its menu. Restaurant patrons in search of innovation may find the menu a bit staid.

But for restaurant patrons who like familiarity, the constancy of the Beach’s staff and its service is to be applauded. It’s nice to come into a restaurant where you are greeted by familiar faces that are friendly but at the same time professional. It’s probably a huge reason that so many people find the Beach a welcome home away from home.

The Beach Café
Type of food: American
1326 Second Avenue at 70th Street
212-988-7299

Romantic—3                             Child Friendly–2
Girls’ Night Out—5                  Solo Dining—5
Business Dining—4                 Visitors Welcome—4
Dress Code—Casual                Budget—Moderate