By Alex DiBlasi and Chelsea Herman
Standing out as a new twist on traditional American cuisine in Kips Bay, The Three Hens brings charming country flair to a gorgeous modern setting. Their large, beautiful tables make the venue perfect for a group of friends to dine together without worrying about a significant lack of elbow room. That said, there are also intimate two-seater tables for those wishing to go out with their special someone. The soft lighting and luxurious decor only helps to create a relaxed environment for diners.
The Three Hens caters to a home-cooked experience without the pomp and pretense that nouvelle cuisine venues use as a means to overcharge patrons. They offer their own version of the classic hamburger, but also serve up a decently-priced pan-seared tuna steak. To me, these plates represent two different ends of the eating spectrum. Seeing the pair on the menu demonstrates the willingness of The Three Hens to cater to both traditional and adventurous eaters.
Another great selling point for The Three Hens is their unique cocktail list. As guests of the restaurant, Chelsea had a great summery beverage called Les Sauvage, featuring vodka, strawberry rhubarb cordial, Lillet Rouge wine, and lemon juice. For me, I had to indulge my taste for all things weird: the Egyptian margarita practically screamed my name, featuring Sombra mezcal, Alchemia chocolate vodka, Cointreau triple sec, lime juice, spices, and a dusting of cocoa powder on the rim. Mezcal is a relative of tequila in that both are made from agave plants, but tequila is exclusively made from the blue agave, while mescal is made from any species of agave, boasting a stronger, harder flavor. This drink was a robust blend of bold flavors, worlds apart from the traditional margarita, but a very welcome change.
The chef brought out one of their signature salads as our first course, the arugula salad. This simple salad was a great way to start the meal, as it featured a tart and sweet combo of bitter argula, dried cherries, bucheron goat cheese, tomato confit, and pain de mie, a slightly sweet toasted bread. The salad was dressed with a lovely balsamic reduction that tied the whole dish together. It was just enough for two people to share.
Our hot appetizer was a milk-marinated fried calamari with home-made guacamole. This dish was uniquely topped with slices of sweet Asian pear as well as thin slivers of Serrano pepper, with lamb’s lettuce as a garnish. By soaking the calamari in milk for hours before cooking, the usual rubbery texture of calamari disappeared, and all that was left was a supple and delicious calamari, lightly fried.
As our third small plate came out we were reminded that The Three Hens specializes in seasonal produce as a way of keeping dishes fresh and exciting for diners throughout the course of the year. The Three Hens enjoys the thrill of using what has been recently harvested or caught from regional waters and farms. We were then treated to some delicious Lamb Ribs that were covered in a sweet and sour lime glaze, served over saffron rice and cilantro. The meat fell right off the bone. These ribs were tender and delicious without being too heavy, and the saffron rice was to die for!
For the main entree, Chef Colin brought out a beautiful plate: the pan-seared yellowfin tuna, served atop a bed of purple yam puree and Swiss chard, drizzled with tomato vinaigrette. The picture speaks for itself – it was a stunningly colorful dish, one of the most dramatic we’ve had. The pairing of the bitter Swiss chard with the sweet yam puree was a nice match for the tender tuna.
Our dessert doubly served as a representation of The Three Hens being a modern twist on the traditional: butter cookies, just like my Gramma makes, but with surprisingly different flavors – all of them delicious. Chelsea’s favorite was the pink peppercorn and rosemary, while I enjoyed the Thai pepper and vanilla. The other, thyme and citrus, was also excellent. This plate of cookies was served with a glass of milk. For our post-meal drink, we shared a bourbon cream soda, using Maker’s Mark, egg white, lemon, and ginger ale.
I generally shudder when I hear the phrase “traditional food.” It conjures up images of church pitch-ins, the overuse of onion powder in favor of actual herbs and seasonings, and the artery-clogging gunk at Cracker Barrel. Thankfully, as mainstream chefs return from the fringe of contemporary cuisine to traditional fare, they bring new tricks, new ideas, and new flavors. The Three Hens does just that, and with their outstanding cocktail list and the promise of an ever-changing menu, they will continue to do it well for a long, long time.
The Three Hens
115 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY
212-679-4603/4713
www.thethreehens.com
Photos by Chelsea Herman
