Zentan—the very name evokes mystery, adventure, an opportunity to experience the truly unique. Here, lights are low, and expectations are high. After all, this is the brainchild of the great internationally acclaimed chef Susur Lee. Originally from Hong Kong, and now owner of several fine dining establishments in America and Canada, Lee is the master of Pan Asian cooking.

The seductive atmosphere, exemplary service, and outstanding food combine to make an evening at Zentan a night to remember. This is the place you want to take that special loved one when you’re ready to pop the question.

All the little things add up. The diner is provided with both chopsticks and silverware; water glasses are immediately refilled, no need to ask; fresh plates are brought for each course. I began my meal with Sake; it’s considered poor form for the drinker to pour, and at Zentan, that never happens. Our server, Erin, was knowledgeable and helpful; when asked, she provided advice on which dishes are most popular, and which beverages are best for pairings. Erin also remembered to inquire about food allergies, since several dishes contain peanuts.

A word of high praise must be written here for Maitre D’ Chris Alvear. He seemed to be everywhere at once; soothing a cranky diner, making sure everyone’s meal was flawless. He made it all look so effortless, and performed with such flair, I couldn’t resist asking about his background. This San Antonio native has been on the Food Network himself, and has worked for Susur Lee for two and a half years. The importance of having a top flight Maitre D’ cannot be overestimated in the running of a first class restaurant; it’s no surprise that Lee demands the best.

What’s Alvear’s take on the great man? “He’s a genius. He’s married Asian Fusion food with French cooking technique, and added a dash of Mediterranean. His sauces and blends are really special. There are other great chefs, but Susur Lee is a notch or two above the best.”

The proof, of course, is in the eating. The food at Zentan is simply sublime. I can honestly say I’ve never had a better meal. Because everything is rich in spices, I recommend drinking the Veuve Cliquot Rose, which is the perfect complement to every dish.

Asian crudo is a specialty of the house, but I decided to begin with a Sai Sei roll. This is comprised of tempura cuddlefish, spicy crawfish, and the Japanese flying fish roe Tobiko.It’s delicious, and there’s plenty to share.

The coconut shrimp soup was light and refreshing, with Thai chili and fresh lime for coolness with a kick.

I’d been advised to order the Singapore Slaw, and I’m glad I did. The great eye appeal is backed up by 19 ingredients, including salted plum dressing and peanuts. This crunchy, tangy delight is as far from your local barbeque variety slaw as you can possible imagine. Again, the portion is plenty large enough to share. We saved some to eat with the rest of our meal; we couldn’t finish it all at one time, and we couldn’t let it be taken away.

Because Zentan food is composed to be a symphony of flavors, the slaw was delightful to eat with the Mongolian Rack of Lamb we ordered for one of our entrees. Imagine this divine dish as the best lamb chops you’ve ever eaten. Ordered medium, they came to the table perfectly pink, accompanied by a chickpea puree, sweet olives, and a cumin ginger tomato sauce. Eat everything together in one bite, and you will approach culinary Nirvana.

The Roasted Salmon is new to the menu; I understand completely why it’s quickly becoming a fan favorite. Most salmon ordered in restaurants is overcooked. Not here; it’s flaky, and the black pepper sauce, leeks, and crispy potato topping form a layer of tastes to delight the palate.

For sides, you can’t beat the wasabi mashed potatoes and the roasted soya Brussels sprouts. The potatoes aren’t too spicy, and the pretty green color perks up the whole meal.

If you know someone who says he hates Brussels sprouts, you know he hasn’t tried them here. One of the great things about the food at Zentan is that each dish is bold and assured on its own, yet everything blends together seamlessly. Our slaw was terrific with our main course; the wasabi potato mash tasted even better dipped in the sauce from the Brussels sprouts.

The desserts are a splendid ending to a magnificent meal. Banana Tempura with ginger lime caramel is an upscale fritter that melts in your mouth.

Plum Wine Poached Pear served with Meyer lemon and an almond gelato is one of the most sophisticated desserts you’ll ever try.

But if you can only manage one dish, it has to be the Warm Chocolate Cake with cocoa crumble and vanilla ice cream. The scrumptious creamy chocolate center is nothing short of decadently luscious. You’ve undoubtedly heard people proclaim that something is better than sex. This gift from the gods is better than great sex.

Zentan. Extraordinary food in an ideal setting makes eating here an incomparable treat. Bring someone you love and celebrate together the joy of dining superbly.

Michall Jeffers and her husband, photographer John Warner, enjoy chronicling their fine dining adventures together in her words and his images. Michall writes extensively, both in print and online. Her eponymous cable TV show is syndicated throughout the tri-state area, and features celebrity interviews, reviews, and commentary. www.michalljeffers.com

Zentan
1155 14th Street, N.W., in the Donovan Hotel
202-379-4366
www.zentanrestaurant.com

Food photo credit: John Warner