My quintessential New York moment arrived in a brief second. If I had blinked or turned my head, I would have missed it. A blur of denim blue rushed in front of me as I strolled along 40th Street near the New York Times building. I glanced towards my left and there, unlocking his bicycle from the parking meter, was Bill Cunningham in his signature work shirt and khakis. He must have been running to retrieve his developed film or on a mission to photograph his stylish subjects roaming the streets of the city.
At that particular time, I was fully aware of Cunningham’s reputation as one of fashion’s top trend spotters, taking snapshots of well-dressed city dwellers in their daily wear, walking down the street or, in my favorite moments, jumping over massive puddles of slushy water along Fifth Avenue. I had become such a fan of his columns as well as his spontaneous, yet eloquent narration for On the Street’s accompanying video that to see him just a few feet away left me awe-inspired. I am sure I looked the fool with my mouth slightly agape as Cunningham went about his day, completely unaware of my presence.
For those unlucky enough not to be acquainted with his work, I suggest running to the Film Forum in the West Village to see Richard Press’s Bill Cunningham New York for a crash course on the eponymous fashion photographer. Cunningham, some may say, paved the way for today’s fashion bloggers; capturing street fashion with his trusty analog camera, recording trends before high profile editors and showcasing how regular women interpret runway style for everyday wear. His work is extensive. His knowledge of the fashion world is far-reaching. In essence, Cunningham is a walking historical catalog of New York fashion since the 1940’s.
Press’s work is a touching, humorous 84-minute portrayal of Bill Cunningham as he attends decadent high society soirees and journeys through the New York streets on foot and, of course, on his signature Schwinn with a Nikon camera strapped along his neck to photograph everything and anything that attracts his eye. We also get a brief glimpse of Cunningham’s life outside the Times building as we are allowed access into his Carnegie Hall residence (Cunningham presently lives in an apartment along Central Park South). But his personal life is a still a mystery, an aspect of his history that he adamantly keeps private. A poignant part of the movie reveals his discomfort on speaking about the subject and we see, for a moment, his cheery disposition fade into a semi-controlled bout of tears.
But the absence of knowledge on his personal life does not affect the true spirit of Press’s documentary. The life of Bill Cunningham is fashion. His devout appreciation for it has held him in the good graces of the fashion elite for decades. The mind even begins to boggle when thinking about the state of the industry if no Bill Cunningham existed. No one can encapsulate the soul of the city through the self-expression of its residents with his enviable grace. It is a gift that few possess, a rarity that keeps one of New York’s original fashion photographers on his toes and always ready for the next shot. Keep your eyes open and you just might see the man himself at his very best.
