Nothing seems to conjure up more discussion these days, at least in the fashion world, then the escalating height of shoes or the outrageousness of shoe design. What has especially sparked the debate this fall is the 12″ heel on a jeweled encrusted shoe gracing the foot of a Sputnik clad cone head model parading down the runway at the Alexander McQueen 2010 spring collection.

Are exaggerated heels the height (literally) of glamour, sexiness, or just plain freaky, leading to road kill, or, does comfort and common sense lead the way to flats? I visited three stores each catering to a different client, each representing the modern woman at different ages with different lifestyles to get a better sense of what an “ordinary woman” (as opposed to seeing models on runways) gravitates towards in shoes.

Always known as the epitome of French fashion, the Yves Saint Laurent label carries some of the most beautiful, classic, timeless shoes for the sophisticated woman whether she is a corporate lawyer, philanthropist, or wants the perfect satin shoe for an evening out. The YSL boutique on East 57th Street sells a variety of styles as well as a solidly constructed, round-toed pump that runs from 3″ to 6 ½” in height. A thin wedge under the ball of the shoe perfectly balances a pencil thin heel that elongates the leg and—I swear—is comfortable to wear (I wiggled my toes) and steady to walk in. The satin scandals with mid-high heels in an array of bright colors (a trademark of the designer Yves Saint Laurent) are standouts. Prices are in line if not slightly lower for some shoes than their competitors.

A shop on the cutting edge of shoe design is Dolce Vita (above) on the Lower East Side. One of three stores in the country (the other two are in Los Angeles and Seattle) Dolce Vita is fashion forward for those interested in the latest trends in shoes at very reasonable prices ($100-$300). Made in New York especially for Dolce Vita, heels, platforms, and flats are reinterpreted from those of high-end shoe designers. Heels reach 5″ to which most customers have had a positive reaction. Intricately woven leather wedgies with open toes look cool with skinny pants and short skirts. Over the knee suede boots (in a flat or high heel) are perfect for cold weather and can be worn with a long sweater on casual Saturday’s while mid-heeled pumps with gold studs will add a bit of bounce to a tailored suit.

For those who need the moment’s must haves, new shipments arrive frequently. For example, Fall I is nearly sold out and the arrival of Fall II styles will in the store next week. For the adventurous with an eye toward the new (like the shoes above), Dolce Vita is definitely a must stop.

One shop that needs to be on everyone’s list is French Sole Shoes (below) with two stores directly across from one another on Lexington Avenue at 71st Street. The retail store sells original ballet slippers and flats manufactured in Brazil, Italy and Spain with prices ranging from $130 to $285 for basic shoes and those from the current season. At the outlet, prices are between $49 to$ 169, allowing buyers to make multiple purchases without serious damage to their pocketbooks. The sale shoes from the summer collection are in glorious colors and materials—from shiny patent leather, leather, or silk—debunking the idea that flats are only for the dowdy, conservative woman. French Sole is also a wholesaler and draws its in-store customer from the tri-state area.

Not normally featured in fashion magazines, but gaining ground among women, is the kitten heel, a shoe that graces the feet of Michelle Obama who stands at 5’10″ and Carla Bruni-Sarkozy whose husband French President Nicolas Sarkozy ‘s rumored height is 5’5.” And to those who crave sensible shoes, a trip to a favorite among dancers is Tip Top on West 72nd Street and Harry’s Shoes at Broadway and 83rd Street.

To women, shoes are not just about comfort, walking about, or, keeping feet healthy. It is generally known to the educated consumer that heels can cause sprained ankles, pinched toes and ruin the balls of your feet. But, does it really matter, especially to the obsessed? Shoes reflect our lifestyle, personality (sensible or risk-taker or edgy), fashion sense, and what image we want to project to the world. While the merits of heels vs. flats can be debated forever, there is no question about it: shoes are an obsession and a symbol of a woman’s vision of who they are or who they want to be. Aren’t women lucky to have those options!

Yves Saint Laurent
3 East 57 St
NYC 10022
212-980-2970
www.ysl.com

Dolce Vita
149 Ludlow St
NYC 10002
212-529-2111
www.shopdolcevita.com

French Sole Shoes
976 and 985 Lexington Avenue @ 71 St
NYC 10021
212-737-2859
www.frenchsoleshoes.com