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Posts Tagged ‘Vogue’

Nine—An Entertaining Felliniesque Musical of the 60’s

Sunday, January 17th, 2010 by Paola Vecchiolla

nine-21

By Paola Vecchiolla

To truly enjoy Nine, the Rob Marshall film, you need to refresh your memory of all those Federico Fellini movies from the 1960s. If you’ve never seen a Fellini film, run don’t walk to the nearest Blockbuster and rent 8 ½, whose plot—a successful director makes six films, plus a couple of short episodes, totaling 8 ½, but can’t seem to finish one more—mirrors what happens in Nine. Guido (played by Marcello Mastroianni in Fellini’s film and Daniel Day-Lewis in Marshall’s) is the main protagonist who suffers from writer’s block, while fleshing out his drama-filled life with memories and flashbacks from his childhood. Indeed, there is an element of Fellini’s real life struggle in Guido’s character. Fellini’s filmmaking broke new ground, the first time a director wrote subjectively about his own life using flashbacks of his own memories, fantasies,
and desires.

Nine, a musical version of the 8 ½ story, also includes references to Fellini’s other films, including La Dolce Vita. Daniel Day-Lewis plays a respectable Guido, a self absorbed and tormented movie director. Although his singing is not exceptional, he does an admirable imitation of an Italian director whose masculinity and creative genius are both a gift and a curse.

Much has been made of the star-studded cast, including more Academy Award winners anywhere except perhaps at the actual awards ceremony. We have Penelope Cruz, as his mistress, Carla, the iconic Sophia Loren, as Guido’s mother, and Judi Dench, leaving behind her stern “M” from James Bond films, as Guido’s former mistress who delivers a surprising rendition of “Folies Bergere.”

That’s not all. We also have Marion Cotillard, an Oscar winner for La Vie en Rose, who plays Guido’s long-suffering wife, Luisa. She sings “My Husband Makes Movies,” with heart wrenching sadness, recognizing his talent but lamenting his flagrant sexual transgressions. In the end, Luisa helps orchestrate Guido’s comeback, recover his creativity and discover the theme for his next film—redemption. And, of course, Nicole Kidman, as a Nordic actress, whose looks are intended to conjure up images of Anita Eckberg who starred in La Dolce Vita.

In the story Guido admits to the press and his film crew that his next film, Italia, is a figment of his imagination, heads for a seaside spa with Carla to ponder his destiny. These scenes, beautifully photographed with images fading into black and white, are reminiscent of both 8 ½ and La Dolce Vita. We see Guido keep a harem of women at arm’s length with a whip and are treated to a sensual performance by Cruz singing “Guido.” Fergie, although not an Oscar winner, brings her Black Peas talent to raise the bar for singing in the film. She delivers “Be Italian” as an anthem causing less self-conscious audience members to jump to their feet. This scene has black and white flashbacks of the Italian prostitute La Saraghina (Eddra Gale) in 8 ½ who teaches the boy Guido—nine years of age—about life’s erotic pleasures. She is sensational!

Kate Hudson, steps out in her role as an aggressive Vogue journalist who employs her female wiles to entice Guido to bed. She sings “Cinema Italiano” and the choreography of the dance number is replete with Rockette moves and fantastic energy. Hudson, shows a new side of performing—dance.

Although Nine has been nominated for many awards, critics found it fell short, many preferring the 1982 Broadway musical that starred Raul Julia, revived in 2003 with Antonia Banderas. Still, the film has energy, colors, lots of wonderful references to Fellini, and all those Oscar winners, including, of course, Day-Lewis, who has two. So, go. You don’t have to be Italian to love it.

The September Issue: A Look Inside the Pages of Vogue

Sunday, September 20th, 2009 by Alix Cohen

vogue

Yes, it’s all frivolous surface and glam and, yes, it’s intentionally flattering. There are no industry revelations or personal secrets revealed.  The September Issue is a breezy, entertaining look at the planning and execution of Vogue’s 2007 telephone-book-sized September issue. At the center of the documentary is Vogue’s glamorous editor-in-chief Anna Wintour (who is described in the movie as “the most important woman in America”), Vogue’s Creative Director Grace Coddington and an industry with which we all seem fascinated to one degree or another.

We accompany Ms. Wintour as she travels to the runways, ateliers, and showrooms of Paris and New York. We watch (and squirm) as her minimally expressed opinions send well-known designers into states of high anxiety. Even a raised eyebrow is enough to send minions, associates and designers alike scurrying for notebooks, scissors and telephones. We peer over her shoulder at meetings, photo shoots, sample selections and layout design boards. Wintour has a hand in every aspect of the magazine and her critiques of photos and collections under consideration for the magazine are brief and often deadly… “the girls always look the same in your pictures”… “I see you’ve decided against color this year” and the rare, “very beautiful.” Candid moments, like these, with employees and designers, sometimes as brief as a comment, offer insights which effectively tint the scenario to which we’re privy and provide fodder for discussion over post-cinema drinks.

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The power of Ms. Wintour in the industry is driven home at a meeting between Ms. Wintour and the CEO of Neiman Marcus. The CEO asks Ms. Wintour to use her influence with design houses to get them to deliver their clothing on time. She merely laughs and rewards him with one of her signature “you must be kidding” looks. We also learn that under her aegis, the magazine has done some giving back, not only in the annual sponsorship of The Metropolitan Museum fundraising costume gala but also of new industry talent. We shriek (with glee) when the winner of the Vogue new designer contest, Thakoon, is escorted by staff into the office to meet Wintour and is greeted with a look that says, “Who the heck are you and how did you get into my inner sanctum?”

anna-wintour-e-grace-coddingtonThe most enjoyable discovery, bar none, is the indomitable Creative Director and conceivably resident style genius of Vogue, Grace Coddington (pictured at left with Anna Wintour).  A former model, this unlikely looking woman has the confidence of a salmon swimming upstream. She’s a force of nature in big hair, practical garments and flats. With enough imagination, taste, and sheer guts to staff her own magazine, Ms. Coddington manages against some odds to achieve the better part of her vision, while maintaining a wicked sense of humor and endless passion for her art. Time spent with her, whether you agree or not with the expressed point of view, is time well spent.

A self-confessed romantic and lover of beauty, Coddington is the last fashion editor who actually dresses the models herself to ensure the perfect execution of her vision. Her relationship with Wintour is often strained. Wintour calls Coddington the greatest living stylist (leaving us to wonder who she thinks the greatest stylist is). Coddington fires her own shots, and tells us that Wintour is the person responsible for all the celebrity models on every magazine cover. “Vogue trained a whole generation to believe they wanted to be fashion models.” She takes another shot at the September cover model, Sienna Miller, by calling her hair lackluster and ordering a wig for Miller to wear in the photo shoot.

We briefly see Ms. Wintour at home and meet her bright, attractive daughter, Bee Shaffer, who is completely uninterested in stepping into her mother’s Manolos, calling the fashion industry “weird”. What we immediately notice about Ms. Wintour’s home is that it is not the over decorated, hands off the furniture type of apartment one might expect from fashion’s high priestess. Instead, it is a real home, with a plain kitchen table and dishes on the countertops. Wintour’s lived-in home, more than anything else, lends humanity to this driven, seemingly cold, perfectionist.

It is also fascinating to discover that, in this industry of perfect bodies, beautiful skin and models that look no more than fifteen, neither whippet-thin Anna Wintour nor odalisque-like Grace Coddington seems to have had cosmetic surgery.  Their faces are out there for everyone to see (when Ms. Wintour takes off her signature glasses, that is) complete with well-earned lines, wrinkles and discoloration.  Maybe they are human, after all.

How Sweet It Is! Charming the Fashionistas at Tiffany’s

Monday, September 14th, 2009 by Laura Lanz-Frolio

anna_wintour

By Laura Lanz-Frolio

The air was crisp, the crowds pumped up, and Fifth Avenue primed for action. Last Thursday evening after dusk, New York’s most famous shopping strip turned into a fashion runway. Girls parading around in studded blazers, four-inch platforms and red liquid leggings, came to see and be seen. Stores, handing out goodies left and right, made Fashion’s Night Out feel like Halloween for fashionistas. Each store was worth a stop. Grace Coddington and champagne at Prada, a cashmere filled Martin + Osa pop up shop, and celebrities galore at Bergdorf’s were just a few of the tasty treats offered along the way.

tiffany-coBut if we’re talking trick or treating, Tiffany’s was the house handing out the jumbo candy bars. From the rose petal strewn blue carpet outside, to the gleaming jewels inside, the four-story jewelry Mecca pulled out all the stops. The first floor came complete with Audrey Hepburn lookalike greeters dressed in black leggings and white men’s button downs, iced herbal tea and coffee drinks, and tiny raspberry cake treats made to look like those little blue boxes that we all covet. The second floor brought an array of elegant chocolate truffles in flavors like yuzu and chipotle.

Travel up one floor and the line for the giant old-fashioned candy bar snaked around the room. Shoppers could have their fill of blue and white lollipops, jellybeans, popcorn and swizzle sticks. And if you hadn’t yet descended into a sugar coma, a fresh juice bar awaited at the end of the journey.

tiffany-candyIf it seems like Fashion’s Night Out at Tiffany’s was mainly about the sweets, you’re right, but let’s not forget the jewels. There was a beautiful array of key-shaped sparklers styled by Vogue editors, and a fun mix and match booth with customizable silver charm bracelets and necklaces, though it seemed like most people were playing rather than buying.

Anna Wintour, the force behind Fashion’s Night Out , said the evening wasn’t all about the freebies, but rather was planned to jumpstart the depressed retail industry. In fact, the event was billed as an international effort to “promote retail, restore consumer confidence, and celebrate fashion.” Vogue’s U.S. and international editions coordinated events in a dozen fashion capitals around the world.

There’s no doubt that Fashion’s Night Out did indeed create crowds, although may not prove to be the jolt the industry needs. While the crowds at Tiffany’s oohed and aahed over the jewels, the hundreds of well-dressed women (and a few well-suited men) spent more time clamoring for Tiffany’s oh-so-sweet swag.

Woman Around Town: Teri Agins Knows Fashion

Sunday, September 13th, 2009 by Debra Toppeta

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Fashion Week is in full swing as designers unveil their spring 2010 collections to a public that is suddenly more interested in saving than spending. Crain’s New York Business reports that some designers have even received special requests from retailers for “more wearable, less pricey apparel,” causing some big name design houses to focus on sellable, commercial styles, rather than more creative, but commercially riskier designs.

14558868-1jpgThat fashion houses are redesigning their clothes to be more appealing to the mass market is no surprise to Teri Agins (above, right) who spent the last 20 years reporting on the fashion business for the Wall Street Journal. In fact, Agins identified fashion’s direction toward commercialization 10 years ago. In her book, The End of Fashion—How Marketing Changed the Clothing Business Forever, Agins posits that we have come to the end of “fashion”— that time when a few designers dictated trends for everyone to follow.Today the roles have been reversed; now it is the consumer who decides what she wants to wear and how much she wants to pay for it.” As Target just staged a pop-up shop to introduce its Anna Sui Gossip Girl Collection, Agins seems almost prescient in her observations.

Agin’s career path to the Wall Street Journal began when she was a ninth grader in Kansas City, Kansas. Her journalism teacher, noting her love of clothes, suggested that she write a fashion column for her high school newspaper. “I called my column ‘Teri’s Tips for Fashion Flair.’ Even as a fourteen year-old, I knew I needed a brand, so I had my name printed in lower case letters on the byline.” Agins, continued on her path when, later, as an undergraduate at Wellesley College, she wrote obituaries for her hometown paper, The Kansas City Star. An internship at the Boston Globe during Watergate was followed by various freelance positions at the New York Times and Time Magazine during the five years she lived in Brazil with her former banker husband. In 1984, Agins was hired by the Wall Street Journal to write a small business column.

Coming into the job at the Wall Street Journal with practically no business background, Agins admits to being terrified and intimidated at first. “It was an exciting place to work; everyone was so smart,” she remembers. Because the Wall Street Journal does not assign stories to its writers, reporters have to find their own. Agins quickly learned how to uncover a story. “The key to most stories is to follow the money,” she says.Look at who has the most to lose.” This strategy served Agins well. When the Wall Street Journal decided to open a fashion bureau in 1989, it tapped Agins for the job.

Agins was one of the first reporters to cover to the fashion industry from a business perspective. “When I was first assigned to cover Seventh Avenue, the Wall Street Journal was not on anyone’s radar,” Agins explains. “Everyone was covering hemlines, but nobody was covering the financial aspects of the industry. The Wall Street Journal forced everyone to cover fashion stories differently.” Some of the early stories Agins covered were the change in dress codes, the consolidation and homogenization of department stores, the “arms race” among the fashion houses and the Italian invasion.

Agins used her talent to “follow the money” to identify emerging trends in the industry. When casual Fridays began in the eighties and men started wearing khakis to work, some astute clothing manufacturers capitalized on this trend. As Agins points out in her book, it took Levi Strauss’ Dockers brand less than five years to explode into a $1 billion a year business. “Casual workdays led to another trend,” Agins explains. “Expensive khakis could not be distinguished from cheaper versions and people needed a way to show off their wealth. This led to the trend in premium jeans, expensive accessories, watches, and, finally, the `It’ bag that was coveted by many but owned by few.”

One of Agins favorite stories was one of the last she wrote for the Wall Street Journal, “Fashion’s Closet Raiders.” Agins wanted to profile a mature woman who was a “non-fashionista” but an intrepid shopper. Through her sources, she found Anne Marie Harrison, a brand manager from New Jersey. Harrison gave Agins a tour of her closet where she had separated everything by color and placed all of her shoes in containers labeled with a photo of the contents. Agins was so taken with Ms. Harrison’s fashion savvy that she added a companion video to the article that is posted online. http://online.wsj.com/video/staying-chic-on-the-cheap/FBBD5E9F-A7AD-469E-AE7B-49EC5929F2C7.html

a2068ac51f916786_56123898largerPerhaps the crowning moment of Agins’ career came in 2004 when the Council of Fashion Designers of America awarded her with the Eugenia Sheppard Award for Excellence in Fashion Journalism. Despite keeping company with fellow Sheppard Award winners such as Bruce Weber and Andre Leon Talley, Agins is characteristically modest. “ I’m respected in the industry because I am fair,” she says. Agins attributes some of her success to the public’s interest in fashion reporting. “Timing is everything. We are in a time when fashion has collided with pop culture and celebrity.”

Although Agins retired from her post at the Wall Street Journal in March, she continues to write about the industry. Her popular “Ask Teri” column is a Thursday staple for the Wall Street Journal. In that column she answers her readers’ fashion questions such as what type of scarf to wear in a convertible (think Audrey Hepburn), are there any high heels that won’t inflame bunions (yes, but you’ll have to skip the pointy toes), and what type of dress best hides a tummy (a wrap dress, of course). Agins is also doing some free-lancing; she contributed an article to the all-important September issue of Vogue and in August wrote a feature about designer Elie Tahari’s soho penthouse for Town and Country Magazine. As a fashion expert, Agins has become a bit of a celebrity herself. She has been a judge on Project Runway and can be seen in an episode of Bravo’s NYC Prep at a Carmen Marc Valvo party. Despite all of her success and accolades, though, Agins was still thrilled when Vogue’s Anna Wintour gave her a sort of Lifetime Achievement Award by throwing a cocktail party in her honor in April.

Woman Around Town’s Six Questions

Favorite Place to Eat: Milos on West 55th Street
Favorite Place to Shop: Sample sales
Favorite New York Sight: Central Park
Favorite New York Moment: The night I won the Eugenia Sheppard Award for Fashion Journalism. The presenter was James B. Stewart and I was alongside fellow winners Tom Ford, Sarah Jessica Parker, Miuccia Prada, Puffy Combs and Carolina Herrera - a very swanky NY evening in June 2004!
What You Love About New York: The diversity, restaurants, Broadway and overall sophistication
What You Hate About New York: Parking and traffic jams

Lampshades Offer the Right Accent to Any Room

Sunday, August 23rd, 2009 by Tamara Moscowitz

Lampshades

Tamara Moscowitz

On the top of everyone’s list for decorating a small space is choosing appropriate lighting. Lighting accents artwork, colors, and objects, and can be purchased at different price levels. It’s a simple touch that can make a substantial difference in the look and feel of any room. If you opt for lamps, you will want to select a shade that adds both style and light to an interior.

black-and-white-lampshade1Just Shades, a forty year-old shop located in Soho, carries shades for every type of décor at affordable prices. There is an extensive selection of silk string, fabric, parchment and paper shades. For those who have a very specific idea, color, or size in mind, shades can be custom-made.

Contemporary shades are hard-backed, offer a minimalist look with clean lines, are easy on the eye, and are laminated or lined in paper, as opposed to heavy fabrics. In the contemporary arena there are four shapes: drum shades; squares; rectangles; and ovals. For a hip, modern style, a black and white shade is fresh and playful.

lots-of-lampshades1Soft-sided shades are more traditional and are abundant in the shop. They are heavier, framed with struts and lined with fabric. Silk is frequently used, allowing the light to shine through, while silk pleats or printed silk are dressy and eye-catching. A sheer organza is especially attractive and delicate for a feminine, soft feel.

Prices range from $20 for a small shade, all the way up to $300 for a larger shade. A guide for customers on how to measure your lampshade is in the help section on the Just Shades web site. Included is a diagram giving easy directions for measuring your lampshade. Just Shades has been featured in all the major décor/style magazines from Elle Décor, New York Spaces, In Style, and Vogue and counts Martha Stewart as a client.

Just Shades
21 Spring Street
888 898 4058
http://www.justshadesny.com/

Richard Avedon: Energizing Fashion Photography

Sunday, May 31st, 2009 by Charlene Giannetti

Richard Avedon

Growing up in the fifties and sixties, Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue were our fashion bibles and Richard Avedon the prophet. His photographs shook things up. The models didn’t pose with the clothes in static settings. They romped, flirted, teased, pouted, and entertained. The photographs told stories, but we were left to write our own endings. Avedon started a revolution and there are many fashion photographers today who owe much to his groundbreaking work. He made photographing fashion respectable by showing that his work was about more than the clothes. He was showing not only what women were wearing, but also what they were thinking.

Until September 6, the International Center of Photography has put together a comprehensive exhibit of Avedon’s work, beginning with his photographs for Harper’s Bazaar when he was only twenty-one, when he worked with legendary models, Suzy Parker, Dovima, and Dorian Leigh, and had as a mentor, Diana Vreeland, a fashion icon, who would lure Avedon to Vogue when she moved there in 1966.

Some of Avedon’s famous photographs are shown, including the 1955 shot of Dovima with elephants. Avedon created the supermodel, first with Suzy Parker and Veruschuka and later with Lauren Hutton and Stephanie Seymour. His series for the New Yorker, “In Memory of the Late Mr. and Mrs. Comfort,” starring Nadja Auermann, showing the model with a skeleton in various story-telling photos, are displayed in ICP’s show.

Besides creating supermodels, Avedon became a star in his own right, inspiring the 1957 movie musical, Funny Face, that starred Fred Astaire as the fashion photographer Dick Avery coaxing a reluctant Audrey Hepburn into modeling. In real life, Hepburn was one of Avedon’s favorite subjects and several of his photos of her are included in the exhibit.

Walking around the ICP show, we spotted several young models seriously studying Avedon’s work. His influence, no doubt, continues.

Avedon Fashion, 1944-2000
International Center of Photography
1133 Avenue of the Americas at 43rd Street
212-857-0000
www.icp.org

Weird Beauty: Fashion Photography at ICP

Thursday, March 5th, 2009 by Charlene Giannetti

ICP

Did you ever flip through Vogue or W, stare at the photographs of models in strange positions wearing outfits that could be worn on Halloween, and wonder—what are they trying to sell?

Wandering through “Weird Beauty:  Fashion Photography Now,” a current exhibit at the International Center of Photography, won’t help you answer that question. You will find, however, arresting photos that push the limits of what we consider fashion.

To be honest, it does get a bit boring to see models just standing there showing off a dress, jacket, or pair of shoes. Perhaps we are confused about what is being sold, but these photos certainly capture our attention. Showcased are some of the best photographers working out there today who obviously are energized by the challenge of showing off clothes in creative, even bizarre, ways. These include Steven Meisel, Cindy Sherman, Mario Sorrenti, Nick Knight, Steven Klein, Miles Aldridge, Paolo Roversi, and Sølve Sundsbø. Mainstream publications—Vogue, W, New York Times—are represented, as well as some lesser-known independent magazines.

If you would like to view fashion the way it used to be photographed, then wander to the lower level for “Edward Steichen: In High Fashion, the Conde Nast Years, 1923-37.” The exhibit includes black and white fashion photographs as well as celebrity photos.

International Center of Photography
1133 Avenue of the Americas at 43rd Street
212-857-000
www.icp.org

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