Flatten Your Thighs
A far as I can tell from decades of unscientific observation, people are either cooks or bakers. Rarely is anyone adept at and drawn to both.
Me, I’m a cook. I occasionally manage a respectable tart or a batch of rustic rugelach. But just a few weeks ago, a foray into chocolate chip cookies produced this:
I know why. Baking, you have to follow directions, or at least understand the science. Cooking, on the other hand, is improvisational. Forgiving. No measurement, no single ingredient is make-it-or-break it. Once you get the hang of a basic technique, you can take it just about anywhere you want. By “anywhere” I mean around the world—right in your own kitchen.
A good example of a dish I riff on is Julia Moskin’s recipe for flattened chicken thighs, published in the New York Times a few years ago. The technique is simple: Cook chicken thighs skin side down, between two cast-iron pans—the top one weighted down with cans, a brick or (what I use) a kettle filled with water.
After about 15 minutes of pleasant sizzling, remove the top pan, flip the thighs over and cook uncovered (the last thing you want to do is steam the now-crispy skin side) for another five to 10. And you’re done. (If you need more time, you can put the thighs into a slow-ish oven for up to a half hour; unlike breasts, they won’t dry out.)
Thighs are delicious … just ask Julia Child, who way preferred them over breasts. Yes, they have more fat. But the pressing renders much of it, leaving you great texture and flavor while assuaging any guilt of indulging in the crisp, delicious skin.
Since Julia Moskin’s recipe has a few more complicated steps—like lifting the skin to place chopped garlic underneath—I’ll give you my adaptation. Don’t worry, the garlic is there, too. Ms. Moskin calls for thyme. I prefer rosemary. But you can also use tarragon—or, for that matter, any herb or combination of herbs you like.
Flattened Chicken Thighs with Rosemary and Lemon, adapted from Julia Moskin
Serves 4
4 chicken thighs, with skin and on the bone
2 tablespoon olive oil
2 or 3 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
2 teaspoons kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground pepper, or to taste
1 tablespoon fresh herb(s) of choice, or 1 teaspoon dried: rosemary, thyme, tarragon
¾ lemon (optional) in very thinly slices wrung out in a kitchen towel
Preheat oven to 325°F.
Dry chicken thighs with paper towels, then salt and pepper generously on both sides. If there’s excess skin, just tuck it over on the other side.
Place an 8- or 9-inch cast-iron pan over medium-high heat. Add 2 tablespoons olive oil.
When oil is hot and fragrant, add chicken thighs, skin side down. Let sizzle for 1–2 minutes, then cover with a second same-sized pan (preferably cast iron, but use what you have). Place a weight on the top pan—a full kettle works great.
Listen for a nice, steady sizzle. Let the thighs cook for about 15 minutes. Remove the weight and top pan. If the thighs lift easily, revealing a crisp, golden skin, they’re done on that side. (If not yet, replace the pan and weight and let them cook a few minutes more.)
When the thighs are done on the skin side, flip them over. Using a baster or spoon, tilt the pan and remove most, but not all, of the rendered fat.
Add the chopped garlic, herb(s) and (optional) lemon slices around, but not on top of, the thighs.
Cook for about 5–10 minutes, uncovered, over medium heat.
Easy, right? You can serve it now or if you need extra time, put the thighs into a 325° oven, uncovered, for 10 minutes to a half hour. Serve with rice and a salad.
Now, two of my variations.
Thai-ish Flattened Chicken Thighs
Serves 4, based on the above recipe
Prepare and cook the thighs, skin side down, according to the recipe, steps 1–5 using vegetable, not olive, oil.
You’ll also need:
2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and sliced into dime-thin rounds
1 long stalk of lemongrass, sliced into 4-inch lengths
2 lime leaves (available at Whole Foods)
Coarsely chopped cilantro (for garnish)
After the skin-side-down cooking:
Flip the thighs over and remove most, but not all, of the fat.
Add the chopped garlic and ginger, the lemongrass and lime leaves, and cook over medium heat, uncovered, 5–10 minutes.
Add ¾ can low-fat coconut milk, being careful to pour the milk around, not onto, the crisp skin.
Place in a 325° oven, uncovered, for 10–30 minutes.
Serve with rice and a salad, or green vegetable for contrast.
Indian-ish Flattened Chicken Thighs
Serves 4
For this one, too, cook the thighs as in steps 1–5 above, in vegetable, not olive, oil. You’ll also need:
2 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and chopped or grated
1 stick cinnamon
1 tablespoon (or more, to taste) ground Indian spices* or 1 teaspoon curry powder
A few pods of cardamom, if you have them
1 cup plain yogurt, thinned with 1 tablespoon water
After the skin-side-down cooking:
Flip the thighs over and remove most, but not all, of the fat.
Add the chopped garlic and ginger, and cook over medium heat, uncovered, 5–10 minutes.
Mix the ground spices into 1 cup of thinned yogurt and add the mixture to the pan, being careful not to pour it directly onto the now skin-side-up thighs.
Place in a 325° oven, uncovered, for 10–30 minutes.
* If you have them, you can mix and match ground Indian spices like turmeric, cumin, chaat masala, coriander and mustard powder to equal about a tablespoon (go easy on this).
Featured photo: iStock by Getty Images. All other photos by Carolyn Swartz