Dominique Bistro on Christopher Street

New York is changing so rapidly – often for the worse – that I’m no longer surprised, after returning from a short vacation, to find half the restaurants in my neighborhood have gone out of business, and whole blocks torn down to make way for high-rise development.

But sometimes there are happy surprises. Such was the case the other day when I was on my way from the 7th Avenue subway to a French restaurant on Christopher Street. There, across from Greenwich Village’s historic Stonewall Inn, was a formerly rundown triangle of park transformed into a beautifully landscaped urban oasis. Amazingly, the Stonewall National Monument, as it is now called, is America’s first LGBT national park. It was so designated by President Obama just two months ago (June 24, 2016). So check out the Park (off 7th Avenue), before or after your visit to Dominique Bistro (DB), which is located on the corner of Christopher and Gay Streets.

2Interior of Restaurant

If any part of New York is like Paris it’s the West Village, with its small boutiques and low-rise brownstones. Dominique Bistro, inspired by and named after its Chef, Dominique Pepe, offers classic bistro food in a comfortable and cozy setting. Given the restaurant’s high ceilings and floor-to-ceiling windows, it’s flooded with natural light, which may be one of the reasons why so many neighborhood patrons settle in early with their laptops, iPads and wine. The other reason, of course, is the delicious food, served from morning ‘til night.

3Spinach Croquette

When making a dinner reservation, ask for a seat by one of the large windows. It’s the best view in the house. While we were perusing the menu and sipping glasses of wine ($17 for a glass of Chardonnay and $15 for a glass of Chianti), a delicious bite-size Spinach Croquette appeared, an amuse bouche courtesy of the Chef. Creamy and yet slightly crunchy, it was not only delicate and delicious but a sign of good things to come.

4Tuna Tartare

Like most New Yorkers, we chose first courses we could share. I’m a sucker for Tuna Tartare ($21), and this one was one excellent, especially refreshing on a hot summer evening. The Ahi Tuna with lemon oil was remarkably fresh, and the entire dish, on its bed of avocado, wonderfully lemony. Other “French Market” first course choices included such old-time favorites as Steak Tartare ($19), Mussels ($17), Escargots ($17) and Fois Gras ($22).

5Pear Salad

Yet, overall, I probably preferred the large Pear Salad ($16), whose individual ingredients – baby arugula, freshly poached pears, crumbles of sweet Gorgonzola and crunchy, candied walnuts – were perfect and well balanced. The French bread, dunked in a bit of oil, was delicious. If one were looking for a light pre-theater dinner, one could make a meal from just these two first course choices. Other French salad classics offered were — Nicoise ($17) and Frisee ($16) – as well as America’s gift to cuisine, Kale Ceasar ($16). I love them all and look forward to trying each on return visits.

6Diners at the Bar

Between Duck Cassoulet ($32), Coq Au Vin ($29) and other staples of French bistro food, it was hard to make a choice. Instead of Salmon ($28) or Scallops ($32), my default summer choice these days, we went for Duck Confit and Steak Frites.

7Duck Confit

8 Steak Frites

Of the two, we both preferred the perfectly cooked Duck Confit ($25), a classic dish from Gascony, with its crisp exterior and meltingly tender interior. We also adored the roasted, lightly salted fingerling potatoes that went with the dish.

The Steak Frites ($34), on the other hand, was okay but nothing special. The portion of NY Strip was generous, but the meat a bit chewy and not particularly well seasoned. Similarly, the large serving of French Fries lacked flavor and crispness.

9Crème Brulée

10Chocolate Souffle

On the other hand, the two desserts we ordered were sensational, and a bargain. If you agree with me that there is no such thing as too much sugar, then you will adore, as I did, the Crème Brulée ($10), with its thick, sugary crust and silken custard underneath. My friend went crazy for the deep, dark Chocolate Soufflé ($10) that, in fact, was more like Jean George’s classic invention, oozing warm molten chocolate in the center. It was served with a scoop of cool vanilla ice cream and ring of nuts, a perfect complement to the rich chocolate.

So if you are in the neighborhood for a movie or the theater, I can’t think of a better place to stop for a meal, especially for those – like me — who still love classic French bistro food in a casual setting.

Dominique Bistro is open for brunch and lunch (10 AM to 5PM), and offers a prix fixe lunch menu with a glass of wine for $35.78.

Dominique Bistro
14 Christopher Street

Photos by Eleanor Foa Dienstag

About Eleanor Foa Dienstag (111 Articles)
Eleanor Foa Dienstag is a journalist and photojournalist whose work has appeared in The New York Times, Harper's, the New Republic, the New York Observer, Ms., McCall's,Travel & Leisure, Frequent Flyer, and many other websites and publications. Eleanor is the author of two nonfiction books: a memoir, "Whither Thou Goest: The Story of An Uprooted Wife," acclaimed by Business Week for its insights into corporate life; and "In Good Company: 125 Years At The Heinz Table," a unique view of a quintessential American company. Both books were promoted with national radio and television appearances. Eleanor served as staff speechwriter to the Chairman and CEO of American Express. In 1983, she founded Eleanor Foa Associates ( It provides a wide variety of corporate services, including annual reports, executive speeches, corporate histories and marketing materials for profit and not-for-profit organizations. Eleanor is past president of the American Society of Journalists and Authors (ASJA), received speechwriting awards from IABC, and was awarded literary residencies at Yaddo, and the Virginia Center for the Creative Arts (VCCA). She resides in Manhattan.