A Tour of Sicily and Naples – The Sicilian Moor’s Heads

Besides the beautiful scenes of Sicily, one image in The White Lotus that stayed in the minds of viewers was that of the many ceramic Moor’s heads placed strategically in the suites and public rooms of the island resort where the series was filmed. The Arabs conquered Sicily in 827 A.D. and ruled for around 250 years. According to the legend, a beautiful young woman was tending her garden when she was spotted by a Moor who declared his love for her. They had a passionate affair. Finding out that the man had a wife and children, she cut off his head and made it into a vase, growing a fragrant basil plant which she watered with her tears. The woman’s neighbors, noticing the luxuriant plant, had ceramic vases made that resembled the Moor’s head. Thus began a trend that continues to represent Sicilian history and culture. Featuring the ceramic vases in the popular HBO series sent a subliminal message about the messed-up love lives of the characters. 

The Moor’s head greeting us at our hotel room.

I knew that I couldn’t return to New York without buying a “Testa di Moro.” In Catania, we found them everywhere – even in the entrance to our hotel room – and not just large Moor heads that echo the legend, but ones that capture a variety of people, men and women represented in many ways. The heads come in vases of all sizes, but also are fashioned into everything from refrigerator magnets to earrings. 

Giuseppe at Bottega Frigeri

Garibaldi, one of Catania’s main streets that leads to the duomo, is filled with shops selling souvenirs, including all manner of Moor’s heads. While the designs vary, so does the quality. One store stood out to us, Bottega Frigeri, where the manager, Giuseppe, told us that the ones he sells are made in Catania by skilled artisans. The workmanship results in vases that stand, ahem, head and shoulders above the rest. 

We decided against buying one of the larger heads, better suited to a commercial environment, and instead focused on smaller ones that could be displayed on a mantle or table in our New York apartment. I chose one that showed a young woman, perhaps like one in the tale, her jewels enhanced with touches of gold. Since she was part of a pair – the man also was trimmed with gold – Giuseppe was initially reluctant to sell me just one. He finally agreed and carefully wrapped our purchase.

Later at the hotel, I regretted breaking up the ceramic couple, so on our way to the restaurant, we stopped into Bottega Frigeri. Giuseppe laughed when he saw us, understanding why we had returned. Fortunately, the lady’s partner had not been purchased by someone else, so we would be able to reunite the two, perhaps bringing a somewhat happier ending to the tale of the young woman and the Moor.

We walked to our restaurant, U Fucularu, where we sat outside enjoying music by a street musician playing a saxophone. For an appetizer, we shared gambero rosso, tender red shrimp, followed by pasta with porcini mushrooms and pistachios. My husband ordered a grilled swordfish, while I chose a whole sea bass, all paired with a Passivento white wine. Dessert was pistachio ice cream.

We couldn’t help but notice that our tablecloth’s design featured Moor’s heads. As we found, they turn up everywhere in Catania.

To read Charlene’s other stories from A Tour of Sicily and Naples, go to the Living Around section on Woman Around Town.